Jump to content


Toggle shoutbox Shoutbox Open the Shoutbox in a popup

@  fastbuick25 : (22 July 2015 - 04:16 AM) actually if u have steady hands any one can solder
@  fastbuick25 : (22 July 2015 - 04:15 AM) hey
@  99RegalClone : (20 July 2015 - 07:21 AM) @scottydoggs98, thanks. i will try that and see if it works.
@  scottydoggs98 : (20 July 2015 - 04:29 AM) you really just need to heat up the ends of the chips there. they will re stick properly. i did mine a second time and added a dot of solder to each side of the chips
@  99RegalClone : (20 July 2015 - 03:13 AM) i havent tried to solder so i may screw it up
@  scottydoggs98 : (19 July 2015 - 12:14 PM) wow chat buster of a linl lol
@  scottydoggs98 : (19 July 2015 - 12:14 PM) ff to 2:50 he does the climate control
@  99RegalClone : (18 July 2015 - 06:45 PM) anyone know of someone that can fix a digital climate control? mine lights up but not able to see the temp or anything.
@  scottydoggs98 : (07 July 2015 - 09:39 PM) i wear 3X gloves. i know what you mean lol that being said, mines only got one screw holding it in. the other one can lick my nuts lol
@  RegalTraveler : (07 July 2015 - 04:55 PM) Yup. That's the one I replaced. It was a pain. Honestly not sure my hand would have fit through there if I weren't so hot and sweaty the day I did it.
@  scottydoggs98 : (07 July 2015 - 01:46 PM) http://www.grandprix...tor-Replacement says gp, but its the same damn thing. ive battled with them a lot over the years.
@  scottydoggs98 : (07 July 2015 - 01:45 PM) the blend doors control the hot and cold air. or the mix of both. they are electric.
@  RegalTraveler : (07 July 2015 - 01:27 PM) are there other blend doors for the cabin besides the two for driver and passenger? The defroster runs on vaccum, I know that b/c I temporarily disabled it while swapping out this blender.
@  RegalTraveler : (07 July 2015 - 01:26 PM) the d/s blend door is the one i replaced.
@  scottydoggs98 : (07 July 2015 - 01:07 PM) r/t your blend door actuator likely took a dump, take it off and turn the knob by hand. or try resetting them by pulling the hvac fuse for a minute and putting it back in.
@  RegalTraveler : (06 July 2015 - 10:18 PM) Here's a question for you guys. A while back I had the iconic issue of not getting cold air on the drivers side, while getting cold air on the passenger side. I finally replaced the D/S actuator and it was cracked.
But now I'm having in issue where my car only pumps out slightly cool air and it takes quite a while to even get that. Hooked up the R134 guages and the number looked relatively okay. We went ahead and put in a little more. The pump runs, but the low-side pressure never dropped and now there's about 90lb on the low-side.
Swapped out the exterior temp sensor and no change.
Any thoughts?
@  Daddy4barrel : (05 July 2015 - 01:33 AM) getting hot too
@  Daddy4barrel : (05 July 2015 - 01:31 AM) had to change heater hose to heater core
@  Daddy4barrel : (05 July 2015 - 01:31 AM) both radiator hoses collapse. air in system?
@  buck531 : (01 July 2015 - 05:50 PM) nevermind. figured it out.

Photo
- - - - -

how much does a Tie Rod cost roughly, with labour??


  • Please log in to reply
8 replies to this topic

#1 Paul_K999

Paul_K999

    Wheres the Newbie Guide?

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 72 posts
  • LocationCanada

Posted 27 February 2008 - 12:16 AM

How much does a Tie Rod cost roughly, with labour?
  • 0

#2 Paul00GSE

Paul00GSE

    Contributing Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,385 posts
  • LocationCleveland, Ohio
  • First Name:
    Paul

Posted 27 February 2008 - 12:19 AM

I just had both my outer tie rods replaced. I got the moog tie rods which is a good brand and those were about $45 a piece, so with labor it cost me $180.
  • 0

#3 2001GSREGAL

2001GSREGAL

    Official RegalGS.org Badge vendor

  • Forum Moderator
  • 1,292 posts
  • LocationChicago
  • First Name:
    Ray

Posted 27 February 2008 - 12:22 AM

Don't forget the alignment, probably another $60-80

#4 Paul00GSE

Paul00GSE

    Contributing Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,385 posts
  • LocationCleveland, Ohio
  • First Name:
    Paul

Posted 27 February 2008 - 12:37 AM

Yea thats true I forgot to mention the alignment. I had an alignment done with that cost so I got a deal.
  • 0

#5 Guest_GS Jon_*

Guest_GS Jon_*
  • Guests

Posted 27 February 2008 - 04:45 AM

Outer tie rod ends are cake work, but since you got parts, labor and an alignment for that, I'd say that's a heck of a deal.
  • 0

#6 Paul_K999

Paul_K999

    Wheres the Newbie Guide?

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 72 posts
  • LocationCanada

Posted 27 February 2008 - 12:45 PM

im also thinking of changing my whole front-end, not sure yet
  • 0

#7 vital49

vital49

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 207 posts

Posted 27 February 2008 - 01:51 PM

You shouldn't need an alignment if the installer takes extra care to mark the threads on the tie rod. As long as the tie rod end is not installed past those marks you shouldn't need an alignment. I've gotten away without getting an alignment a few times when replacing tie rod ends.
  • 0

#8 Svarog98LS

Svarog98LS

    All the Basic Mods

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 641 posts
  • LocationCanada

Posted 01 March 2008 - 07:02 AM

You shouldn't need an alignment if the installer takes extra care to mark the threads on the tie rod. As long as the tie rod end is not installed past those marks you shouldn't need an alignment. I've gotten away without getting an alignment a few times when replacing tie rod ends.


you're 100% correct!...I've replaced alot of outer tie-rod ends and a few inner-tie rods and never had to do the alignment, all cars go strait like arrows (just like you said tho, to skrew the new tie-rods the same way/distance as the old rods , usually counting/marking threads and/or measuring distances)....the "OUTer" tie-rod end is childs-play, the "INNER" tie-rod is something else....I think at a typical mechanic shop, the labor alone for the inner tie-rod is probably $150 or more .... I made my life easy cause I bought a tool made to remove inner tie-rods....

-The inner tie rod is connected to the rack-pinion covered by the "boot"....when unskrewing the inner tierod, the pinion piston that the rod is skrewed to has to be supported & locked by a wrench so it doesn't spin with the tie-rod (if the piston spins I think that will demage the rack&pinion and you will need a new one)...either way if you have access to the inner tie rod, chances are a regular wrench is too thick to fit into the keyways so you'll have to file it down to 1/4''think, and you'll need 2 of those filed wrenched, one for the pinion piston and the other for the inner tie-rod. I measured the key-ways with a caliper to know which wrench to file.

For me replacing the INNER tie-rod is a easy job except time consuming, some cars are easier than others simply because of how much access there is to the inner tie-rod & pinion.

BTW the inner tierod is just another balljoint.
  • 0

#9 Hellfish

Hellfish

    I Know Regals

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,550 posts
  • LocationUSA

Posted 01 March 2008 - 07:55 AM

i did it myself for like 50 bux with TRW ends.

when i took it in for an alignment i was also almost dead on.
  • 0




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users

BoHeGeHa Dark Blue 2.1.1 © Thomas Yugar (Chemical Chaos)
Official upgrade for IPB 2.3.x © Michael ( Dev Fuse )
3.X © Upgrade by Dumbledore ( Tppskinning )