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@  BlackBetty : (20 December 2014 - 07:47 AM) See if you can pick up a used set of TOG headers then. ive read tons of great things about them when fitment is a concern
@  Sapias Lupus : (19 December 2014 - 09:25 AM) But then again with the SD I've only heard of the fitment issues once or twice and just needing a new flex, So I probably will go with the SD. We'll see.
@  Sapias Lupus : (19 December 2014 - 09:16 AM) (Car came with Dp and Plog from PO, or I would have had headers rather)
@  Sapias Lupus : (19 December 2014 - 09:15 AM) I mean I've already got a plog and dp from zzp but I am going upgrade to headers, and I have utilities to make them work, my only issue is fitment being off and all the other glorious problems said to come with SD, so I was thinking Pacesetter because they are slip and fitted right and the Y is fixed via ZZP (review of leaks but I can just just weld them up.
@  BlackBetty : (19 December 2014 - 07:05 AM) go with speed daddy's. I do everything myself so i went plog/pem.. but would rather have the headers anyday
@  Sapias Lupus : (19 December 2014 - 05:35 AM) I mean so then I don't need clamps and I won't get leaks.
@  Sapias Lupus : (19 December 2014 - 05:24 AM) Pacesetters or Speed Daddys worth it if I have a welder available and an expert to do it for free?
@  novascotiaGS : (18 December 2014 - 01:50 AM) When is the new calendar going to be again available anyone know?
@  Sapias Lupus : (17 December 2014 - 04:01 AM) I went ahead and PMed you, I feel you know the roots of what the motor can handle with the gen 5 from your experience. I'd like to talk more extensively if thats cool.
@  Crazyguy03 : (17 December 2014 - 03:57 AM) it wasnt until I added a S1X that i could take the timing all the way up to 21* no kr
@  Crazyguy03 : (17 December 2014 - 03:56 AM) then I went to a gen5 and FSIC and N* then I was able to run a 3.0 WITH decent timing
@  Crazyguy03 : (17 December 2014 - 03:56 AM) from there i added headers and 1.9s
@  Crazyguy03 : (17 December 2014 - 03:55 AM) lol its hard to understand and remember but I can say I remember where I started it was a bone stock motor with just an intake, 3.4, and tune
@  Sapias Lupus : (17 December 2014 - 03:48 AM) I'll pm you.
@  Sapias Lupus : (17 December 2014 - 03:46 AM) Oh sh*t wait are you saying you ran a 3.4 on a gen 5 with nothing but intake and tune lol and didn't "need" an IC until you dropped again?
@  Sapias Lupus : (17 December 2014 - 03:41 AM) I'm not looking at SSICs I am planning to get the FS. I just don't exactly get what you're saying with the guys with the gen 3 running 3.25 because I'm not getting a SS. IGNORE THIS I think I done goofed
@  ejguillot : (17 December 2014 - 02:03 AM) Hi guys
@  Crazyguy03 : (17 December 2014 - 02:02 AM) I stayed with a 3.4 NO IC NO rockers stock everything but intake and tune I didnt move to a 3.0 until FSIC and 1.9s / cam
@  Crazyguy03 : (17 December 2014 - 02:01 AM) i know for a fact people with headers , gen3, SSIC, 42s , and 1.9s could not run a 3.25 with the same timing and fueling as a FSIC and 3.0
@  Crazyguy03 : (17 December 2014 - 02:00 AM) you cant assume you have to be sure

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how much does a Tie Rod cost roughly, with labour??


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#1 Paul_K999

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 12:16 AM

How much does a Tie Rod cost roughly, with labour?
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#2 Paul00GSE

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 12:19 AM

I just had both my outer tie rods replaced. I got the moog tie rods which is a good brand and those were about $45 a piece, so with labor it cost me $180.
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#3 2001GSREGAL

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 12:22 AM

Don't forget the alignment, probably another $60-80

#4 Paul00GSE

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 12:37 AM

Yea thats true I forgot to mention the alignment. I had an alignment done with that cost so I got a deal.
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#5 Guest_GS Jon_*

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 04:45 AM

Outer tie rod ends are cake work, but since you got parts, labor and an alignment for that, I'd say that's a heck of a deal.
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#6 Paul_K999

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 12:45 PM

im also thinking of changing my whole front-end, not sure yet
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#7 vital49

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 01:51 PM

You shouldn't need an alignment if the installer takes extra care to mark the threads on the tie rod. As long as the tie rod end is not installed past those marks you shouldn't need an alignment. I've gotten away without getting an alignment a few times when replacing tie rod ends.
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#8 Svarog98LS

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Posted 01 March 2008 - 07:02 AM

You shouldn't need an alignment if the installer takes extra care to mark the threads on the tie rod. As long as the tie rod end is not installed past those marks you shouldn't need an alignment. I've gotten away without getting an alignment a few times when replacing tie rod ends.


you're 100% correct!...I've replaced alot of outer tie-rod ends and a few inner-tie rods and never had to do the alignment, all cars go strait like arrows (just like you said tho, to skrew the new tie-rods the same way/distance as the old rods , usually counting/marking threads and/or measuring distances)....the "OUTer" tie-rod end is childs-play, the "INNER" tie-rod is something else....I think at a typical mechanic shop, the labor alone for the inner tie-rod is probably $150 or more .... I made my life easy cause I bought a tool made to remove inner tie-rods....

-The inner tie rod is connected to the rack-pinion covered by the "boot"....when unskrewing the inner tierod, the pinion piston that the rod is skrewed to has to be supported & locked by a wrench so it doesn't spin with the tie-rod (if the piston spins I think that will demage the rack&pinion and you will need a new one)...either way if you have access to the inner tie rod, chances are a regular wrench is too thick to fit into the keyways so you'll have to file it down to 1/4''think, and you'll need 2 of those filed wrenched, one for the pinion piston and the other for the inner tie-rod. I measured the key-ways with a caliper to know which wrench to file.

For me replacing the INNER tie-rod is a easy job except time consuming, some cars are easier than others simply because of how much access there is to the inner tie-rod & pinion.

BTW the inner tierod is just another balljoint.
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#9 Hellfish

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Posted 01 March 2008 - 07:55 AM

i did it myself for like 50 bux with TRW ends.

when i took it in for an alignment i was also almost dead on.
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