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@  Daddy4barrel : (05 July 2015 - 01:33 AM) getting hot too
@  Daddy4barrel : (05 July 2015 - 01:31 AM) had to change heater hose to heater core
@  Daddy4barrel : (05 July 2015 - 01:31 AM) both radiator hoses collapse. air in system?
@  buck531 : (01 July 2015 - 05:50 PM) nevermind. figured it out.
@  buck531 : (01 July 2015 - 05:38 PM) Anyone on? Wild?
@  99RegalClone : (30 June 2015 - 02:52 AM) @glendayle ive unlokced the front door then almost instantly hit it again, but only unlocks the front. Im about to order wheel hubs from rockauto, dont want to fix everything just enough to get it running/stopping so i can sell it.
@  glendayle : (24 June 2015 - 06:17 AM) it unlocks the drivers door. If you press the unlock key again within like 3 or 5 seconds it unlocks the rest of the doors.
@  glendayle : (24 June 2015 - 06:17 AM) yes, it could be. I've had this problem and about every other problem known over the 13 years I've had my car.
@  99RegalClone : (24 June 2015 - 05:42 AM) i also noticed when u unlock the doors with the key fob it doesnt unlock ALL the doors just the front.
@  99RegalClone : (24 June 2015 - 05:39 AM) i'll check the fluid later today and see if i can get the SES light off. i know how to get it off, with the key on but not started pump the gas pedal slow 3 times within 5 seconds right?
@  99RegalClone : (24 June 2015 - 05:38 AM) ok glen. i did some search and it could be a bad wheel hub sensor
@  glendayle : (24 June 2015 - 05:37 AM) SES is probably unrelated to the ABS/trac off. Could just be low brake fluid.
@  99RegalClone : (24 June 2015 - 03:57 AM) i have the 3 lights on ABS trac off and service engine soon. are those indicative of a bad wheel sensor?
@  99RegalClone : (24 June 2015 - 03:54 AM) hey guys, i bought a cheap buick century, but this time im gonna fix it from what the guy i bought it from told was wrong with it and then sell it
@  glendayle : (23 June 2015 - 09:49 PM) scotty, what do you do for work?
@  scottydoggs98 : (18 June 2015 - 01:12 PM) funny but almost every time i flash a tune, full or partial, i need to reset them damn things. always the driver side that blows warm after the flash
@  RegalTraveler : (18 June 2015 - 12:34 PM) Otherwise,it's probably low on freeon a according to some stories. Still weird that the passenger side is cold.
@  RegalTraveler : (18 June 2015 - 12:33 PM) I think my hoses are fine bc my defroster functions.
@  RegalTraveler : (18 June 2015 - 12:33 PM) Yea,I'm going to try the fuse thing tonight.
@  scottydoggs98 : (18 June 2015 - 12:19 PM) then lastly theres your a/c system is low on freon, that will cause warm on the drivers side too.

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how much does a Tie Rod cost roughly, with labour??


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8 replies to this topic

#1 Paul_K999

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 12:16 AM

How much does a Tie Rod cost roughly, with labour?
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#2 Paul00GSE

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 12:19 AM

I just had both my outer tie rods replaced. I got the moog tie rods which is a good brand and those were about $45 a piece, so with labor it cost me $180.
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#3 2001GSREGAL

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 12:22 AM

Don't forget the alignment, probably another $60-80

#4 Paul00GSE

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 12:37 AM

Yea thats true I forgot to mention the alignment. I had an alignment done with that cost so I got a deal.
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#5 Guest_GS Jon_*

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 04:45 AM

Outer tie rod ends are cake work, but since you got parts, labor and an alignment for that, I'd say that's a heck of a deal.
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#6 Paul_K999

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 12:45 PM

im also thinking of changing my whole front-end, not sure yet
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#7 vital49

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 01:51 PM

You shouldn't need an alignment if the installer takes extra care to mark the threads on the tie rod. As long as the tie rod end is not installed past those marks you shouldn't need an alignment. I've gotten away without getting an alignment a few times when replacing tie rod ends.
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#8 Svarog98LS

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Posted 01 March 2008 - 07:02 AM

You shouldn't need an alignment if the installer takes extra care to mark the threads on the tie rod. As long as the tie rod end is not installed past those marks you shouldn't need an alignment. I've gotten away without getting an alignment a few times when replacing tie rod ends.


you're 100% correct!...I've replaced alot of outer tie-rod ends and a few inner-tie rods and never had to do the alignment, all cars go strait like arrows (just like you said tho, to skrew the new tie-rods the same way/distance as the old rods , usually counting/marking threads and/or measuring distances)....the "OUTer" tie-rod end is childs-play, the "INNER" tie-rod is something else....I think at a typical mechanic shop, the labor alone for the inner tie-rod is probably $150 or more .... I made my life easy cause I bought a tool made to remove inner tie-rods....

-The inner tie rod is connected to the rack-pinion covered by the "boot"....when unskrewing the inner tierod, the pinion piston that the rod is skrewed to has to be supported & locked by a wrench so it doesn't spin with the tie-rod (if the piston spins I think that will demage the rack&pinion and you will need a new one)...either way if you have access to the inner tie rod, chances are a regular wrench is too thick to fit into the keyways so you'll have to file it down to 1/4''think, and you'll need 2 of those filed wrenched, one for the pinion piston and the other for the inner tie-rod. I measured the key-ways with a caliper to know which wrench to file.

For me replacing the INNER tie-rod is a easy job except time consuming, some cars are easier than others simply because of how much access there is to the inner tie-rod & pinion.

BTW the inner tierod is just another balljoint.
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#9 Hellfish

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Posted 01 March 2008 - 07:55 AM

i did it myself for like 50 bux with TRW ends.

when i took it in for an alignment i was also almost dead on.
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