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@  BlackBetty : (01 August 2014 - 09:16 PM) Also just finished oil pan gasket so all are done from valve covers down. next project is lager brake rotors and dual piston calipers.
@  BlackBetty : (01 August 2014 - 09:15 PM) how much the SD headers right now? I've been looking like crazy for a great price
@  jawdog : (01 August 2014 - 07:21 PM) ordering SD headers next friday....hope to have everything on soon so i can go racing late aug into sep and oct
@  jawdog : (01 August 2014 - 07:18 PM) thanks...adding them to the parts bin.
@  buck531 : (01 August 2014 - 07:08 PM) one below the ic, one above
@  buck531 : (01 August 2014 - 07:08 PM) yep
@  jawdog : (01 August 2014 - 06:17 PM) quick question about gaskets for intercooler install...i need two SC gaskets, correct?
@  jawdog : (01 August 2014 - 06:15 PM) hey buck..
@  buck531 : (01 August 2014 - 05:50 PM) nope
@  jawdog : (01 August 2014 - 05:30 PM) is the mic on...tap, tap, tap.
@  glendayle : (01 August 2014 - 03:22 AM) I run 10w 40 most of the time
@  BlackBetty : (31 July 2014 - 07:47 PM) Good to know I may switch from 30 to 40 then since I live in the Desert
@  Frostflowz : (31 July 2014 - 05:53 PM) Changed the oil today, 15w40 from my work. Doesn't burn oil anymore! haha!
@  buck531 : (31 July 2014 - 05:20 PM) http://i.imgur.com/ccEeYFH.jpg
@  BlackBetty : (29 July 2014 - 06:20 PM) ty for all your help this site rocks.. also is there a diy for exhaust. im unclear about the downpipe connection in the back
@  BlackBetty : (29 July 2014 - 05:59 PM) ill work on moving it more forward n such tonight.. its 100 degrees still here at midnight. i even took of a secondary cover next to the flywheel cover. would jacking the engine up a little bit more give me anything?
@  BlackBetty : (29 July 2014 - 05:58 PM) actually i did that 1st lol so i could get familiar with things while we set up for everything else
@  glendayle : (29 July 2014 - 05:49 PM) Make sure you removed the oil level sensor. That can get in the way.
@  glendayle : (29 July 2014 - 05:49 PM) then one moment, the pan will just be in your hands.
@  glendayle : (29 July 2014 - 05:49 PM) yeah, if you are catching on the edge there, just try to slide it forward a little bit. You just sort of have to figure it out

Photo
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how much does a Tie Rod cost roughly, with labour??


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8 replies to this topic

#1 Paul_K999

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 12:16 AM

How much does a Tie Rod cost roughly, with labour?
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#2 Paul00GSE

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 12:19 AM

I just had both my outer tie rods replaced. I got the moog tie rods which is a good brand and those were about $45 a piece, so with labor it cost me $180.
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#3 2001GSREGAL

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 12:22 AM

Don't forget the alignment, probably another $60-80

#4 Paul00GSE

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 12:37 AM

Yea thats true I forgot to mention the alignment. I had an alignment done with that cost so I got a deal.
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#5 Guest_GS Jon_*

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 04:45 AM

Outer tie rod ends are cake work, but since you got parts, labor and an alignment for that, I'd say that's a heck of a deal.
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#6 Paul_K999

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 12:45 PM

im also thinking of changing my whole front-end, not sure yet
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#7 vital49

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 01:51 PM

You shouldn't need an alignment if the installer takes extra care to mark the threads on the tie rod. As long as the tie rod end is not installed past those marks you shouldn't need an alignment. I've gotten away without getting an alignment a few times when replacing tie rod ends.
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#8 Svarog98LS

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Posted 01 March 2008 - 07:02 AM

You shouldn't need an alignment if the installer takes extra care to mark the threads on the tie rod. As long as the tie rod end is not installed past those marks you shouldn't need an alignment. I've gotten away without getting an alignment a few times when replacing tie rod ends.


you're 100% correct!...I've replaced alot of outer tie-rod ends and a few inner-tie rods and never had to do the alignment, all cars go strait like arrows (just like you said tho, to skrew the new tie-rods the same way/distance as the old rods , usually counting/marking threads and/or measuring distances)....the "OUTer" tie-rod end is childs-play, the "INNER" tie-rod is something else....I think at a typical mechanic shop, the labor alone for the inner tie-rod is probably $150 or more .... I made my life easy cause I bought a tool made to remove inner tie-rods....

-The inner tie rod is connected to the rack-pinion covered by the "boot"....when unskrewing the inner tierod, the pinion piston that the rod is skrewed to has to be supported & locked by a wrench so it doesn't spin with the tie-rod (if the piston spins I think that will demage the rack&pinion and you will need a new one)...either way if you have access to the inner tie rod, chances are a regular wrench is too thick to fit into the keyways so you'll have to file it down to 1/4''think, and you'll need 2 of those filed wrenched, one for the pinion piston and the other for the inner tie-rod. I measured the key-ways with a caliper to know which wrench to file.

For me replacing the INNER tie-rod is a easy job except time consuming, some cars are easier than others simply because of how much access there is to the inner tie-rod & pinion.

BTW the inner tierod is just another balljoint.
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#9 Hellfish

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Posted 01 March 2008 - 07:55 AM

i did it myself for like 50 bux with TRW ends.

when i took it in for an alignment i was also almost dead on.
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