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@  scottydoggs98 : (27 January 2015 - 03:55 AM) its under the air bag
@  BettyRegal : (26 January 2015 - 02:53 AM) can anyone tell me where the horn button ground is by the steering column/cam cancel?
@  UncleEvil : (25 January 2015 - 01:32 AM) Ah, yeah, fun stuff.
@  gojo83 : (25 January 2015 - 12:21 AM) smd
@  UncleEvil : (24 January 2015 - 11:57 PM) I haven't paid attention to the guides on the cluster fixes, are the resistors through hole or SMD?
@  UncleEvil : (24 January 2015 - 11:57 PM) One more time now that I'm at a real keyboard lol
@  UncleEvil : (24 January 2015 - 11:54 PM) I havebt paidd attention ti the guides on that, are they thriugh hole or SMD resistors?
@  gojo83 : (24 January 2015 - 10:57 PM) doing the DIY cluster fix and the 2 resistors that are not supposed to need replaced... need replaced and its like ugh
@  CraigGSE : (24 January 2015 - 02:49 PM) sup
@  UncleEvil : (24 January 2015 - 07:09 AM) What exactly failed on you gojo?
@  gojo83 : (24 January 2015 - 04:50 AM) Leave it to me to be to one guy that electronic crap fails on... UGH
@  gojo83 : (23 January 2015 - 09:56 PM) I would love a corvette hud but i am sure the wiring would be a headache.
@  tippietoejoe : (23 January 2015 - 06:55 PM) Better yet has anyone tried to fit in a LeSabre HUD GM#16236794 into a Regal? I see that they have used a 16195782(GTP) and a 16254574 (Park Ave). but havent seen anyone use a 16236794
@  tippietoejoe : (23 January 2015 - 06:36 PM) anyone have a good link to a HUD retrofit?
@  RegalTraveler : (21 January 2015 - 10:48 PM) It cost me $80 shipped to get a new pair of headlights off eBay. Came with new bulbs too.
@  Sapias Lupus : (21 January 2015 - 03:02 PM) Im getting my head lights restored by my bodyshop, 60 bucks and removal of my baked pinstripe. Not to bad because theyĺl look new like my tails when he did them. And the way I figure one of those erasers is like 30 bucks and a the time and effort for head light restoration is intense to be done right.
@  Sapias Lupus : (21 January 2015 - 03:00 PM) Speaking of Alldata their is this http://www.regalgs.o...ernamepassword/
@  BettyRegal : (21 January 2015 - 05:23 AM) Hey I have access to Alldata and Shopkey at school if anyone wants me to print out any write-ups and scan them into a DIY, just inbox me what you need I guess.
@  99GT2dr : (19 January 2015 - 11:56 PM) Yeah get that level corrected before anything else, more than likely that'll take care of it, unless something internally blew from the excess pressure.
@  Bigjunior : (19 January 2015 - 11:53 PM) gonna try again

Photo
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98 Regal Drive belt tensioner


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3 replies to this topic

#1 Chi_Town

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 01:06 AM

Going through the pulleys I have been trying to figure out where this annoying squeeking has been comming from. Well it came down to changing the tensioner pulley out and it didn't fix the issue so i now just replaced the alternator but it still didn't fix the issue =(. While I was installing the alternator I noticed that while putting pressure onto the idler pulley to remove the belt, I kept hearing the squeek again, so im going to go with the idea that the issue is the tensioner itself.

Does anyone know where i can get a good used one ? Maybe a member here may have one !!

And maybe a general walk through with installing the part, I honestly need to get this part replaced ASAP because im sick of hearing the squeek.


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#2 kevandkaye

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 01:37 AM

MORAD AUTO PARTS! Morad auto parts, morad auto parts!!!!!! I can't say enough good about that place fast, and affordable! Just tell him what you are looking for, He'll get it!

Just remember most everything on the tensioner is left-hand-thread!

Here's the website, but you might search his ebay store first ( link on the site)....


http://www.moradpartscompany.com/

Edited by kevandkaye, 09 September 2010 - 01:39 AM.

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#3 Chi_Town

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 02:48 AM

MORAD AUTO PARTS! Morad auto parts, morad auto parts!!!!!! I can't say enough good about that place fast, and affordable! Just tell him what you are looking for, He'll get it!

Just remember most everything on the tensioner is left-hand-thread!

Here's the website, but you might search his ebay store first ( link on the site)....


http://www.moradpartscompany.com/



Ok but is there possibly a write up of it? Or can somone give me the steps from start to finish as to what I need to do to replace it? I can't amagin it being difficult but I dont want to screw anything up =)

Thanks again kevandkaye appreciate the insight I deff will look through his store and contact him if he doesn't have what im looking for .


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#4 zz2h33

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 07:40 PM

the idler is easy to replace, just remove it by removing the bolt on the face and put on the new one. First take the belt off by releasing the tension on the tensioner with a wrench. This will be a good time to put a new belt on, not absolutely necessary but its good piece of mind and cheap so might as well do it. there is a diagram of the belt routing on a sticker that is in the engine compartment. this will be handy when it comes time to put the belt back on.

when it comes to pulleys, i do not recommend getting a used one. they are cheap enough that a used one doesnt make sense. esp since you dont know how many miles the used one has, it can go any day. do it right or do it twice! check rockauto, i bet you find a brand new one just as cheap as a used one.

I also recommend replacing it asap. a squealing idler means failure is eminent, and if its the acc belt if that goes you lose power steering, water pump, and alternator. not something you want happening when you're on the road.




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