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@  Marchi1 : (18 October 2014 - 08:55 PM) Just use a piece of vac libe
@  Marchi1 : (17 October 2014 - 11:57 PM) Yeah we are
@  Wawful : (17 October 2014 - 04:49 AM) holy cow same guys are still here
@  keithr182 : (16 October 2014 - 03:40 PM) Perfect. That's the cheaper solution I was looking for! Thanks
@  BlackBetty : (16 October 2014 - 07:03 AM) entire kit of supplies at your local shop is like $12 for all the lines a nd Tee's vs a gm kit of $35+
@  BlackBetty : (16 October 2014 - 06:54 AM) to be honest i used the larger tube out of the two sizes given in the vacuum how to thread.
@  keithr182 : (16 October 2014 - 06:48 AM) Anyone know the part number of the vac hose in this picture (the one with the white stripe - goes to the SC actuator) ? It seems like it's a formed hose, and I can't find the PN anywhere... Or could I just use a vacuum line from the store? Pic here: http://www.regalgs.o...-1304997385.jpg
@  RegalTraveler : (15 October 2014 - 01:53 AM) anyone on tonighgt?
@  Marchi1 : (13 October 2014 - 03:13 PM) Fixed it...the om bots are gone
@  gojo83 : (13 October 2014 - 06:48 AM) We have spam bots
@  keithr182 : (12 October 2014 - 09:24 PM) Would i need snout bearings or case needle bearings? I've never noticed a sound or anything like that before. Totally sucks. Thought I'd be able to clean it all up and install the intercooler tomorrow. arg!
@  keithr182 : (12 October 2014 - 09:20 PM) they definitely touch.
@  scottydoggs98 : (12 October 2014 - 09:01 PM) you want them to be as tight as they can with out touching, if they touch the bearings are bad
@  scottydoggs98 : (12 October 2014 - 09:00 PM) if it spins free and dont touch it, leave it alone
@  keithr182 : (12 October 2014 - 08:59 PM) Ahh okay thanks. So if I'm going to run it should I at least smooth that section in the photo out so there's no bumps or friction? There is a GS at the junkyard here. Might just swap the rotors
@  scottydoggs98 : (12 October 2014 - 08:57 PM) you lose some boost from the coating being gone.
@  scottydoggs98 : (12 October 2014 - 08:57 PM) use it as is
@  keithr182 : (12 October 2014 - 08:56 PM) What do you mean by run it?
@  scottydoggs98 : (12 October 2014 - 08:55 PM) yup rotor is flaking off some. find new rotors, or run it.
@  keithr182 : (12 October 2014 - 08:52 PM) Just wondering if the rotors (or whatever they are called) have a teflon coating and if that's the coating coming off in the picture...

Photo
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98 Regal Drive belt tensioner


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3 replies to this topic

#1 Chi_Town

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 01:06 AM

Going through the pulleys I have been trying to figure out where this annoying squeeking has been comming from. Well it came down to changing the tensioner pulley out and it didn't fix the issue so i now just replaced the alternator but it still didn't fix the issue =(. While I was installing the alternator I noticed that while putting pressure onto the idler pulley to remove the belt, I kept hearing the squeek again, so im going to go with the idea that the issue is the tensioner itself.

Does anyone know where i can get a good used one ? Maybe a member here may have one !!

And maybe a general walk through with installing the part, I honestly need to get this part replaced ASAP because im sick of hearing the squeek.


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#2 kevandkaye

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 01:37 AM

MORAD AUTO PARTS! Morad auto parts, morad auto parts!!!!!! I can't say enough good about that place fast, and affordable! Just tell him what you are looking for, He'll get it!

Just remember most everything on the tensioner is left-hand-thread!

Here's the website, but you might search his ebay store first ( link on the site)....


http://www.moradpartscompany.com/

Edited by kevandkaye, 09 September 2010 - 01:39 AM.

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#3 Chi_Town

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 02:48 AM

MORAD AUTO PARTS! Morad auto parts, morad auto parts!!!!!! I can't say enough good about that place fast, and affordable! Just tell him what you are looking for, He'll get it!

Just remember most everything on the tensioner is left-hand-thread!

Here's the website, but you might search his ebay store first ( link on the site)....


http://www.moradpartscompany.com/



Ok but is there possibly a write up of it? Or can somone give me the steps from start to finish as to what I need to do to replace it? I can't amagin it being difficult but I dont want to screw anything up =)

Thanks again kevandkaye appreciate the insight I deff will look through his store and contact him if he doesn't have what im looking for .


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#4 zz2h33

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 07:40 PM

the idler is easy to replace, just remove it by removing the bolt on the face and put on the new one. First take the belt off by releasing the tension on the tensioner with a wrench. This will be a good time to put a new belt on, not absolutely necessary but its good piece of mind and cheap so might as well do it. there is a diagram of the belt routing on a sticker that is in the engine compartment. this will be handy when it comes time to put the belt back on.

when it comes to pulleys, i do not recommend getting a used one. they are cheap enough that a used one doesnt make sense. esp since you dont know how many miles the used one has, it can go any day. do it right or do it twice! check rockauto, i bet you find a brand new one just as cheap as a used one.

I also recommend replacing it asap. a squealing idler means failure is eminent, and if its the acc belt if that goes you lose power steering, water pump, and alternator. not something you want happening when you're on the road.




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