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@  Daddy4barrel : (05 July 2015 - 01:33 AM) getting hot too
@  Daddy4barrel : (05 July 2015 - 01:31 AM) had to change heater hose to heater core
@  Daddy4barrel : (05 July 2015 - 01:31 AM) both radiator hoses collapse. air in system?
@  buck531 : (01 July 2015 - 05:50 PM) nevermind. figured it out.
@  buck531 : (01 July 2015 - 05:38 PM) Anyone on? Wild?
@  99RegalClone : (30 June 2015 - 02:52 AM) @glendayle ive unlokced the front door then almost instantly hit it again, but only unlocks the front. Im about to order wheel hubs from rockauto, dont want to fix everything just enough to get it running/stopping so i can sell it.
@  glendayle : (24 June 2015 - 06:17 AM) it unlocks the drivers door. If you press the unlock key again within like 3 or 5 seconds it unlocks the rest of the doors.
@  glendayle : (24 June 2015 - 06:17 AM) yes, it could be. I've had this problem and about every other problem known over the 13 years I've had my car.
@  99RegalClone : (24 June 2015 - 05:42 AM) i also noticed when u unlock the doors with the key fob it doesnt unlock ALL the doors just the front.
@  99RegalClone : (24 June 2015 - 05:39 AM) i'll check the fluid later today and see if i can get the SES light off. i know how to get it off, with the key on but not started pump the gas pedal slow 3 times within 5 seconds right?
@  99RegalClone : (24 June 2015 - 05:38 AM) ok glen. i did some search and it could be a bad wheel hub sensor
@  glendayle : (24 June 2015 - 05:37 AM) SES is probably unrelated to the ABS/trac off. Could just be low brake fluid.
@  99RegalClone : (24 June 2015 - 03:57 AM) i have the 3 lights on ABS trac off and service engine soon. are those indicative of a bad wheel sensor?
@  99RegalClone : (24 June 2015 - 03:54 AM) hey guys, i bought a cheap buick century, but this time im gonna fix it from what the guy i bought it from told was wrong with it and then sell it
@  glendayle : (23 June 2015 - 09:49 PM) scotty, what do you do for work?
@  scottydoggs98 : (18 June 2015 - 01:12 PM) funny but almost every time i flash a tune, full or partial, i need to reset them damn things. always the driver side that blows warm after the flash
@  RegalTraveler : (18 June 2015 - 12:34 PM) Otherwise,it's probably low on freeon a according to some stories. Still weird that the passenger side is cold.
@  RegalTraveler : (18 June 2015 - 12:33 PM) I think my hoses are fine bc my defroster functions.
@  RegalTraveler : (18 June 2015 - 12:33 PM) Yea,I'm going to try the fuse thing tonight.
@  scottydoggs98 : (18 June 2015 - 12:19 PM) then lastly theres your a/c system is low on freon, that will cause warm on the drivers side too.

Photo
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98 Regal Drive belt tensioner


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3 replies to this topic

#1 Chi_Town

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 01:06 AM

Going through the pulleys I have been trying to figure out where this annoying squeeking has been comming from. Well it came down to changing the tensioner pulley out and it didn't fix the issue so i now just replaced the alternator but it still didn't fix the issue =(. While I was installing the alternator I noticed that while putting pressure onto the idler pulley to remove the belt, I kept hearing the squeek again, so im going to go with the idea that the issue is the tensioner itself.

Does anyone know where i can get a good used one ? Maybe a member here may have one !!

And maybe a general walk through with installing the part, I honestly need to get this part replaced ASAP because im sick of hearing the squeek.


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#2 kevandkaye

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 01:37 AM

MORAD AUTO PARTS! Morad auto parts, morad auto parts!!!!!! I can't say enough good about that place fast, and affordable! Just tell him what you are looking for, He'll get it!

Just remember most everything on the tensioner is left-hand-thread!

Here's the website, but you might search his ebay store first ( link on the site)....


http://www.moradpartscompany.com/

Edited by kevandkaye, 09 September 2010 - 01:39 AM.

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#3 Chi_Town

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 02:48 AM

MORAD AUTO PARTS! Morad auto parts, morad auto parts!!!!!! I can't say enough good about that place fast, and affordable! Just tell him what you are looking for, He'll get it!

Just remember most everything on the tensioner is left-hand-thread!

Here's the website, but you might search his ebay store first ( link on the site)....


http://www.moradpartscompany.com/



Ok but is there possibly a write up of it? Or can somone give me the steps from start to finish as to what I need to do to replace it? I can't amagin it being difficult but I dont want to screw anything up =)

Thanks again kevandkaye appreciate the insight I deff will look through his store and contact him if he doesn't have what im looking for .


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#4 zz2h33

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 07:40 PM

the idler is easy to replace, just remove it by removing the bolt on the face and put on the new one. First take the belt off by releasing the tension on the tensioner with a wrench. This will be a good time to put a new belt on, not absolutely necessary but its good piece of mind and cheap so might as well do it. there is a diagram of the belt routing on a sticker that is in the engine compartment. this will be handy when it comes time to put the belt back on.

when it comes to pulleys, i do not recommend getting a used one. they are cheap enough that a used one doesnt make sense. esp since you dont know how many miles the used one has, it can go any day. do it right or do it twice! check rockauto, i bet you find a brand new one just as cheap as a used one.

I also recommend replacing it asap. a squealing idler means failure is eminent, and if its the acc belt if that goes you lose power steering, water pump, and alternator. not something you want happening when you're on the road.




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