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@  Froman003 : (16 April 2015 - 09:01 PM) my 01 gs is for sale if anybody is interested on the east coast
@  de.regal : (14 April 2015 - 04:23 PM) I used the torque app which I believe is in in. Of vacuum
@  keithr182 : (14 April 2015 - 04:15 PM) Thanks, what's that measured in? In. Hg? PSI? kpa?
@  de.regal : (14 April 2015 - 11:07 AM) In park
@  de.regal : (14 April 2015 - 11:05 AM) I think its around 19.1-19.5 at warmed up and idle
@  keithr182 : (14 April 2015 - 05:24 AM) Anyone have the numbers for what the vacuum reading should be at idle?
@  TheSethDavis : (13 April 2015 - 07:07 PM) I did make it to the Charlotte Autofair and see #74 GNX
@  TheSethDavis : (13 April 2015 - 07:06 PM) been a long time guys. hard times right now, hopefully things will get better
@  208_S/CRegal : (13 April 2015 - 05:29 AM) Ran the Regal for the first time today, think adjusted elevation was about 3000 feet, ran 15.00 at 93. Pretty happy with that for a basically stock car.
@  jawdog : (12 April 2015 - 04:27 PM) who puts an o2 sensor 2in from plug....GM
@  RegalTraveler : (10 April 2015 - 09:05 PM) I only have 1 car, so I wasn't going to tackle it on my own. It would be down for a while. My elbows are aluminum, now... they were dry-rotted plastic last fall.
@  BlackBetty : (09 April 2015 - 05:40 AM) LIM gasket job was pretty simple really. I did it with a write up and video. I bagged each part or bolt n put a number on it so I wouldnt skip a step putting it back together. Dealership wanted $1600 for LIM and oil pan gasket. Do you have plastic or aluminum elbows for the coolant?
@  RegalTraveler : (09 April 2015 - 01:40 AM) Ehh. I just been trying to keep my Regal alive a little longer. Just did my coupler, all my struts, and replaced the SC vacuum lines. My old struts were completely shot; you could depress and extend the pistons effortlessly by hand. I'm about to replace my 604-106 HVAC actuator. I'm pretty sure the only thing at this point that will brick the car will be when my LIM gaskets completely blow. There's already a lot of seepage of fluids to the outside of the engine, and I'm likely burning small amounts of oil already. Not sure it's worth the $1000+ investment to have a shop do those gaskets on a car that's barely worth $1500. Still love the car though. 1998 GS, The interior is impeccable. 144k miles on the car.
@  gojo83 : (07 April 2015 - 08:16 PM) Im trying to limp along 2 dying transmissions till I can get to them and get them fixed/replaced
@  Nateteo : (07 April 2015 - 03:06 AM) sooooo whats every buddy been up too lately.. i for one have been chasing my o2 heater problem and reading up on fsms on jdm mitsu evos.. had to fix a oem evo 4 plastic blow of valve on a customers evo 4, the guy wants a tune up. fsm=full service Manuel in English+ tools=fixable import lol
@  Tobias05 : (04 April 2015 - 03:02 AM) Dark Grey NOS OEM steering wheel over on eBay. I want it.
@  Tobias05 : (04 April 2015 - 02:56 AM) lol
@  steveyjr1982 : (04 April 2015 - 01:39 AM) Gotta collect that ad revenue!
@  RegalTraveler : (03 April 2015 - 02:09 PM) I clicked a w-bodies link and did get AFF. Wonder what's up with that???
@  Vinie : (03 April 2015 - 08:38 AM) dust shield backing plate

Photo
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98 Regal Drive belt tensioner


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#1 Chi_Town

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 01:06 AM

Going through the pulleys I have been trying to figure out where this annoying squeeking has been comming from. Well it came down to changing the tensioner pulley out and it didn't fix the issue so i now just replaced the alternator but it still didn't fix the issue =(. While I was installing the alternator I noticed that while putting pressure onto the idler pulley to remove the belt, I kept hearing the squeek again, so im going to go with the idea that the issue is the tensioner itself.

Does anyone know where i can get a good used one ? Maybe a member here may have one !!

And maybe a general walk through with installing the part, I honestly need to get this part replaced ASAP because im sick of hearing the squeek.


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#2 kevandkaye

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 01:37 AM

MORAD AUTO PARTS! Morad auto parts, morad auto parts!!!!!! I can't say enough good about that place fast, and affordable! Just tell him what you are looking for, He'll get it!

Just remember most everything on the tensioner is left-hand-thread!

Here's the website, but you might search his ebay store first ( link on the site)....


http://www.moradpartscompany.com/

Edited by kevandkaye, 09 September 2010 - 01:39 AM.

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#3 Chi_Town

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 02:48 AM

MORAD AUTO PARTS! Morad auto parts, morad auto parts!!!!!! I can't say enough good about that place fast, and affordable! Just tell him what you are looking for, He'll get it!

Just remember most everything on the tensioner is left-hand-thread!

Here's the website, but you might search his ebay store first ( link on the site)....


http://www.moradpartscompany.com/



Ok but is there possibly a write up of it? Or can somone give me the steps from start to finish as to what I need to do to replace it? I can't amagin it being difficult but I dont want to screw anything up =)

Thanks again kevandkaye appreciate the insight I deff will look through his store and contact him if he doesn't have what im looking for .


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#4 zz2h33

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 07:40 PM

the idler is easy to replace, just remove it by removing the bolt on the face and put on the new one. First take the belt off by releasing the tension on the tensioner with a wrench. This will be a good time to put a new belt on, not absolutely necessary but its good piece of mind and cheap so might as well do it. there is a diagram of the belt routing on a sticker that is in the engine compartment. this will be handy when it comes time to put the belt back on.

when it comes to pulleys, i do not recommend getting a used one. they are cheap enough that a used one doesnt make sense. esp since you dont know how many miles the used one has, it can go any day. do it right or do it twice! check rockauto, i bet you find a brand new one just as cheap as a used one.

I also recommend replacing it asap. a squealing idler means failure is eminent, and if its the acc belt if that goes you lose power steering, water pump, and alternator. not something you want happening when you're on the road.




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