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I hope everyone has a Merry Christmas on here!!

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I plan to be on here more often. Don't want this site to fade away.

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hello all

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@wildgs :*(

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almost forgot about this place until the bill showed up....

@  marcleach75 : (24 October 2018 - 07:30 PM)

Are you sure it's the actuator not the vacuum line?

@  gumba : (23 October 2018 - 11:35 PM)

need help with blend door actuator is there one on the passenger side?

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transmission flush

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Who knows, people use apps nowadays. Not to many youngins use urls.

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What's poppin! We don't know what to do to liven up the website!

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The majority of people on fb are annoying.

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Agreed. I'd rather pay money to keep this site going than be on Facebook and having everything on there be used to make a buck for Zuck and company.

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We need to get this place moving again! Post link to this site on every social media site you know! Been around too long and we can't let it go down..........

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Seems everyone is too stressed to be online and worried about where their next meal is coming from! Rough times right now!

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Still dead in here. Get off Facebook!

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Crazy, huh? I remember when I first got my GS in 2010 this place was a lot more active

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wow two weeks with no input

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ded

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It is dead in here. Everyone on facebook?

@  M_Dogg : (03 July 2018 - 11:40 PM)

hello!!
echo
..echo
....echo


Photo
* * * * * 1 votes

My '99 Ultra Yella Terra 1:9 Rocker install


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13 replies to this topic

#1 kevandkaye

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Posted 09 April 2011 - 09:06 PM

So I decided to document what I did with my new Yella Terra 1:9's. Why? because I'm sure there aren't many places to find out about modding Park Aves. This should be similar in most S/C series 2 Buicks, so here goes......

If you decide to do this, Make sure you get a notebook handy and write down all your steps in order. That way you don't skip anything going back in. Also, It is highly recommended that you get a case learn procedure done afterwards.

Posted Image


Have a torque wrench, and replacement valve cover gaskets.

If you're doing springs, borrow, or buy a telescoping magnet, a valve spring compressor, and compression testor/fitting NOW so you don't have to once you tear into it.

Posted Image


Start by disconnecting battery,marking and pulling your 3 front wires off and the plastic wire retainer from the front of the cover (I took all my wires off for replacement). Take off the belt for the alternator.

3.8 engine firing order:

Posted Image


Next, you'll want follow the wiring bundle around the front and unplug any vaccum lines and injector connectors that may interfere, writing down steps in order. when you get enough room to move harness out of the way, tape it or ty-wrap it to the right side of the motor (I tied mine to the intake tubing)

Posted Image

remove the front motor hanger hook, Pull the plugs, and lay a towel across the header for dirt and clip catching.

Then whip that cover off the front and toss the Gasket if it is ORANGE (recall part)........ You'll see old oily rockers, Ta DA!

Posted Image


rotate the engine to CYL #1 TDC (top dead center) This removes some of the spring pressure when removing old rockers.

Posted Image

do this for each one till they are all off on the front side, then you should look like this....
Posted Image

pull out the rods and Go ahead and take the one piece pedestal base out too.

The next steps are only necessary if your doing springs.....


******* SPRING SECTION ***********



<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<PRESSURIZING CYLINDERS >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I got a cheap pressure tester from *auto store* that came with an air chuck fitting and used my compressor. It leaked down to 50 PSI without dropping the valves. screw the fitting into the #1 cylinder and pressure up. Don't forget to move the air hose over after doing each pair of springs!


Now it gets fun! :)

Make SURE you cover all the area around the springs inside the head to catch the little clips, should you drop them....and you will!
I used some shop towels, and rags.
Posted Image

Now get your valve spring compressor, little magnet on a stick, and a buddy ready to help you out (not mandatory, but the extra hand helped alot!) Pressurize the cylinder.

Posted Image

*reminder* Check for pressure ---------

Squeeze the spring and let your buddy catch the little clips with the magnet....on a steek....This game can be fun... for awhile.
Replacement is opposite of removal and becomes quite repetitive after the first couple times. Just remember, two at a time, then move hose over.

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< END OF SPRING PORTION >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
(yella Terra rocker set)

Prepare your new bases by fitting them onto the head for finish, direction, and fitment. All looks good? great! Now take all the little pedestals and see where they fit best into the base. I had to play a bit of 'shell game' to see where they fit the best. If some are too tight, you may have to do a little "field" machining with a file.

Posted Image

When that's done, place them on the head, drop in the appropriate rods, and set the rockers on according to your rocker manufacturer specs. (mine are Yella Terra)

Posted Image

If all looks well, put the front half back together in the opposite way you removed it. Well done! :)

Now you're experienced enough for the back half :pray:


====================================================
====================================================
PREPARING FOR THE BACK HALF
====================================================
====================================================


OK. You've got some experience at changing the rockers and springs routine down, right? :?: If you have a Regal, you probably need to remove the dogbones on the front and tilt the engine forward.
Time to move onward. The belt should be removed at this point, and now you can remove the Alternator connecting cables, top bracket (bar) and alternator.

See that big hose coming from the brake booster? you can swing that out of the way by taking the S/C end of it loose, and this "U" shaped hose..... don't forget to note everything down!

Posted Image "U" shaped hose.
You should now look similar to this....

Posted Image

Take the two heater hoses off the top of the Alternator bracket and swing them up and back out of the way.
Posted Image

Now the Alternator bracket should be freed up and ready to remove the three bolts that hold it in....

You have two plastic elbows that are holding the alternator bracket in place at the opposite end of where the heater hoses went in. You will have to carefully wiggle and pry
them out with the bracket.... They may break. Don't worry, they are cheap and probably need replacing anyways. (Under 10 bucks for both usually at parts store)
Posted Image

You should now have a pile of this... If they break off, you can pull the piece out of the neck with a bent screwdriver or similar hooked tool. Clean the openings for the new elbows (scotchbrite?) and lube with some petroleum jelly.
Posted Image

Now just keep noting and removing harness plugs, and injector connectors until the back cover is clear. Then you can take off the rear hangers if you wish for more hand room....

Posted Image


Here's an assortment of pics to hopefully help you along....


Posted Image

Posted Image

Once you can get the rear cover off, pull the spark plugs in the rear, and start covering everything with rags again for the change out....


Do the changeouts, then begin re-assembly from your notes. You kept good notes I hope!

here's a bonus pic of vacuum routing from my '99 (courtesy GM)

Posted Image

Take your time during re-assembly and double check EVERYTHING you step backwards through. All I can say at this point is.... I hope this helped you out and good luck! And don't forget, get or do a case learn on your PCM!


all done!
Posted Image
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#2 Marchi1

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Posted 09 April 2011 - 09:12 PM

WOW That is an old picture!

#3 aaregalgs

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Posted 10 April 2011 - 02:46 AM

Damn that motor looks clean... now just add some headers in there and it will POP
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#4 kevandkaye

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Posted 30 September 2011 - 01:16 AM

Damn that motor looks clean... now just add some headers in there and it will POP


Approaching 190k miles, not a single issue with the YT's! :)
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#5 kevandkaye

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Posted 29 January 2015 - 08:08 PM

Approaching 190k miles, not a single issue with the YT's! http://www.regalgs.o..._DIR#/smile.gif

Make that 240 k now!

Edited by kevandkaye, 29 January 2015 - 08:09 PM.

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#6 b4black

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Posted 29 January 2015 - 08:17 PM

Are there any rockers that work well with the stock springs?


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#7 RacingRegal36

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Posted 30 January 2015 - 05:57 AM

Make that 240 k now!

My girl friends lesabre is running on everything stock when we bought it. Since then ive replaced plugs, wires ect. It has 223k miles
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#8 kaveman1010

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Posted 15 March 2015 - 05:45 PM

Where do you buy yells terras?
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#9 kaveman1010

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Posted 15 March 2015 - 05:45 PM

Where do you buy yella terras?
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#10 kevandkaye

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Posted 15 March 2015 - 06:43 PM

I got them here years ago.....

 

http://intense-racin...y_Code=3800_HCV

 

But you can look here too.

 

https://www.google.c...ella terra 3800


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#11 kaveman1010

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Posted 15 March 2015 - 08:21 PM

Thanks! :)
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#12 kevandkaye

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Posted 02 October 2018 - 12:43 PM

Hi all, looking through some old threads today. WOW it's been a long time! The P.A.died from a rust infection recently after losing a front brake line iput it on Jacks and it was REAL bad underneath! Just wanted to say that even though she ran steadfastly for years, at 282k the motor and rocker set ran beautifully.
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#13 TurboTPI

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Posted 02 October 2018 - 01:13 PM

Sadly that seems to be the case with ALOT of 3800 powered vehicles, the engine runs great but the body is falling apart from rust


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#14 91hotel

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Posted 18 October 2018 - 01:09 PM

Hi all, looking through some old threads today. WOW it's been a long time! The P.A.died from a rust infection recently after losing a front brake line iput it on Jacks and it was REAL bad underneath! Just wanted to say that even though she ran steadfastly for years, at 282k the motor and rocker set ran beautifully.


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