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@  MrWOT : (18 November 2017 - 05:55 PM)

Well that was fun, did mounts, found engine mount bracket sheared.

@  scottydoggs98 : (03 November 2017 - 11:49 PM)

no way you blew it up lol coupler might be bad already if its clicking when you turn th epulley back and fourth .

@  griff-97gs : (03 November 2017 - 04:43 PM)

blew my supercharger this weekend wen my serpentine belt snapped coming off the freeway anyone know the cost to hav one rebuilt

@  Loly : (23 October 2017 - 08:29 PM)

Check out MPD for hoods, I have one and Crazyguy03 has one as well and they are great for heat release and Cold Air (RAM AIR). Here's the link.... http://www.mpd1.com

@  bad108 : (19 October 2017 - 02:14 PM)

hoods

@  jwguinn : (16 October 2017 - 02:36 PM)

Anyone know the actual flow rate on siemens 60lb injectors? I have seen anywhere 60-65, that is big difference. I used 62 in my tune...

@  jwguinn : (19 September 2017 - 01:35 AM)

nvm I found it. ripoff! I think I will make one...

@  jwguinn : (18 September 2017 - 03:31 PM)

Anyone know the part number or where to get a replacement for the short very curved vacuum line that connects to the throttle body mine is split where it connects...?

@  EnderDRM : (13 September 2017 - 12:04 AM)

So the headers and 3" exhaust is on. Sounds pretty good.

@  bigbird90650 : (31 August 2017 - 09:12 AM)

I'm looking for regal "GSX" emblems. Anyone have any for sale? I am looking for the OEM SLP GSX chrome emblems. Thanks

@  EnderDRM : (30 August 2017 - 09:27 PM)

Hi all, I thought I would get the plugs replaced while the headers are being installed. Recomendations for plugs?

@  Marchi1 : (25 August 2017 - 02:08 PM)

Speedy daddy is the default cheap. I have been running pacesetters for 10 years and with the exception of one issue have had no problems.

@  scottydoggs98 : (22 August 2017 - 02:02 AM)

every now and again you get a poorily built cross over pipe and they dont fit right. only issue with them

@  scottydoggs98 : (22 August 2017 - 02:02 AM)

those are what most of use run, good ol speed daddy

@  EnderDRM : (22 August 2017 - 01:37 AM)

http://speed-daddy.c...cription_tabbed

@  EnderDRM : (22 August 2017 - 01:36 AM)

so what about these?

@  Fast86GN : (21 August 2017 - 09:10 PM)

Where the hell is everyone?

@  chromeGS : (19 August 2017 - 01:07 AM)

Long time since ive been on... hows everyone been

@  WildGS : (12 July 2017 - 04:11 AM)

You are making me do things....I need to spend time on stupid car stuff

@  Marchi1 : (12 July 2017 - 02:35 AM)

How is everyone doing tonight?


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97-04 Regal Ignition Harness Replacement


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8 replies to this topic

#1 Crazyguy03

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Posted 28 August 2014 - 12:51 PM

Ignition switch replacement for '97 - '04 Buick Regal LS/GS models:


BEFORE BEGINNING THIS PROCEDURE REMOVE THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL FROM THE BATTERY. IT IS NOT POSSIBLE TO DO THE REPAIR WITHOUT DOING THIS. USE GOOD LIGHTING WHICH WILL HELP.

Look inside the slot where the tilt steering knob is located. There is a black metal piece where the knob inserts into the tilt mechanism. Pry it back (to the right) slightly with a small screwdriver. While you have it pried, pull the knob out and it should release.

Remove the two Torx T20 screws from the bottom of the steering column cover and remove the bottom cover. For tool use a Torx T20 male bit, 1/4" drive. You'll have to grasp and pull firmly to separate the bottom half from the top.

Remove the one screw (E5 Star type) that holds the top steering column cover in place. It is located on the right side of the cover next to the ignition key cylinder. Look and work from from underneath the top cover. For tool use an E5 Star female socket. Available either through Lisle Tools or Harbor Freight Tools (Pittsburgh brand).

Insert the ignition key into the key cylinder and turn the key clockwise to the start position. Nothing will happen because you have disconnected the battery prior to starting this project. Lift the top steering column cover being careful not to break it because it is still held in place by the ignition key cylinder. Carefully wiggle the top cover over the ignition key cylinder housing and with patience the top cover should be free for removal. Note: It is not necessary to remove the ignition key cylinder to do this job. Some people do but I didn't have to. Also, it may help to turn the steering wheel to the 3 o'clock position before removing the ignition switch and proceeding with the steps below.

The black box (module) below the key cylinder with all of the wires coming out of it is the ignition switch that you are changing. I recommend using the AC Delco ignition switch and harness assembly only. Delco part number D1491D. In any case make sure you have the two extra wiring leads and connectors on the ignition switch and harness assembly. One is for key present and the other for the key release solenoid. Look at the switch you have purchased for this repair. Notice that the small white plug with two wires attached has a tab on the side that can be pushed down, this is the release for the plug-in. Using a mirror (woman's compact works nicely) you will see that plug-in against the ignition switch housing where it plugs in. Using a small screw driver press the release tab in against the plug and rotate the plug 90 degrees to the right to remove it. To do otherwise may break the plug.

Next remove the plug from the white key release solenoid by inserting a small screw driver and pressing the release tab on it. Pull downward carefully and it will come off.

Undo the two E4 Star screws holding the ignition switch to the metal housing. The tool needed is an E4 Star type extended female socket, 1/4" drive. Available either through Lisle Tools or Harbor Freight Tools (Pittsburgh brand).

Remove the kick panel under the driver's side of the dash. There should be at least two plastic push pin fasteners that need to be removed. On your back and from underneath undo the plug at the opposite end of the ignition switch by unscrewing counterclockwise the 7mm head bolt in the center of the plug and unplugging it. (Use a 7mm socket and driver). After bolt is loose carefully pull the connector stack from the main connector in the dash.

There is a black wiring connector plug on top and a gray one on the bottom of the ignition switch connector plug that needs to be removed. This is done by prying the center of the plug case where it meets the ignition harness plug while sliding it forward. Note: Black and gray plugs sandwich the ignition switch plug. They are the connector plugs for the multifunction switch. Be sure to note the position of these two connectors relative to the ignition switch connector for reassembly.

Cut any tie wraps holding the wire harness in place and carefully feed it out of the dash towards the steering column.

To install do the reverse of the above. Tie wrap the new harness into place. When replacing the ignition switch make sure that the slot in the switch is properly aligned with the corresponding part (paddle) on the steering column. You can move the key to get it aligned properly or insert a small flat blade screwdriver into ignition switch module female slot. Also, make sure the right side E4 Star screw for the ignition switch module is inserted into the white key release solenoid slot/hole first before tightening the screw to the ignition switch module and then to the metal housing. Do not over tighten the two E4 star screws.

The key can be released from the key cylinder by pressing the button on the bottom of the key release solenoid since battery power is disconnected.

After complete assembly reconnect the battery negative cable and test ignition switch operation. Check all functions possible especially all the accessories.


Pics for reference:

ign_01.jpg

Tools needed. Torx T20 bit, E4 and E5 Star sockets, 7mm socket 1/4" drive

ign_02.jpg

Ignition Switch and Harness Assembly, Delco PN: D1491D

ign_04.jpg



Ignition Switch Module Being Removed

ign_03.jpg


Ignition Switch Module Removed

ign_05.jpg

Other end of ignition switch and harness under dash

Edited by Crazyguy03, 28 August 2014 - 12:58 PM.

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#2 Crazyguy03

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Posted 28 August 2014 - 12:59 PM

Copied for DIY reference
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#3 marcleach75

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Posted 28 August 2014 - 04:08 PM

Bomb write up.  :music-rockout:


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#4 Loly

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Posted 29 August 2014 - 10:17 PM

ttt


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#5 de.regal

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Posted 07 November 2017 - 01:12 AM

Just a quick shout-out November 2017 I just reread your post and boy did you save me big money mine just happened again for the second time in 6 years 5 years apart but now I'm not paying a mechanic I did it myself thanks very much
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#6 Crazyguy03

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Posted 07 November 2017 - 03:23 AM

Such a great feeling to save all that money for more important things like mods right ? ;)
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#7 de.regal

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Posted 16 November 2017 - 11:55 PM

Actually the wife wants me to sell it. Move up to an xcl enclave. Don't know.
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#8 Crazyguy03

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 03:28 AM

I would seek the newer GS and see what zzp has for the turbo 4 cylinder.... ;)
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#9 monte0

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Posted Yesterday, 02:33 PM

Nice writeup Done so many of these


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