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@  2000GSEDUDE : (13 January 2018 - 03:50 AM)

really would like a gsx grille or spoiler about now...

@  Mitchell075 : (08 January 2018 - 05:28 AM)

Nuh uh

@  2001GSREGAL : (06 January 2018 - 04:14 AM)

WOW this place is dead.

@  scottydoggs98 : (26 December 2017 - 06:02 PM)

its back, but a .com now

@  scottydoggs98 : (26 December 2017 - 06:02 PM)

http://www.grandprixforums.com/mgc_cb_evo.php?do=view_chatbox

@  Billycar11 : (24 December 2017 - 09:34 AM)

going to miss all that info on gpf but then again https://web.archive....dprixforums.net most stuff is missing though

@  Billycar11 : (24 December 2017 - 09:30 AM)

so is the new place for wbody stuff or ?

@  cheatah fahe... : (19 December 2017 - 02:13 AM)

buuck531

@  cheatah fahe... : (19 December 2017 - 02:13 AM)

make a new account Buck ?

@  buck531 : (19 December 2017 - 12:50 AM)

Meh can't sign into wbody.com used an old email that I don't have access to anymore.

@  ithurtz : (17 December 2017 - 03:01 AM)

junk

@  scottydoggs98 : (17 December 2017 - 12:21 AM)

only hear it when the wheels spin free, dead stop, or rolling spinning, same sound. not a single rattle or any thing else, as long as they dont spin

@  scottydoggs98 : (17 December 2017 - 12:21 AM)

@  scottydoggs98 : (17 December 2017 - 12:20 AM)

yup, no idea wtf that sound it.

@  cheatah fahe... : (16 December 2017 - 11:57 PM)

sounds less Regalish, and more Tahoeish ?

@  scottydoggs98 : (16 December 2017 - 10:52 PM)

i have no idea what you speak of

@  Billycar11 : (16 December 2017 - 09:00 PM)

Scotty why is your car making weird noises

@  ithurtz : (16 December 2017 - 04:13 AM)

cock

@  ithurtz : (15 December 2017 - 03:23 AM)

thats the Member ride

@  MarshalC : (15 December 2017 - 03:21 AM)

http://www.w-body.co...pecial-edition/


Photo
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Rocker arm install


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27 replies to this topic

#1 M_Dogg

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Posted 10 January 2018 - 12:23 AM

How hard would it be to install 1.9 rockers/springs and all that for someone that has never done it before? I'm thinking about doing gen V swap and headers install at the same time. With the blower/LIM out of the way, rear bank should be fairly easy to do. Any advice/pointers on how to do it the right way without dropping valves?  :shifty:  I know pressurizing the cylinder is the way to go but wanted to get some feedback from the crew that's done it before. Time to start doing some of that crap myself.

Many thanks!


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#2 Crazyguy03

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Posted 10 January 2018 - 03:10 PM

If you don’t use air you can use a straw in the spark plug and rotate the engine over until the position of the position is at TDC.
Used a spring lever from a buddy to compress the spring and a magnetic pick up tool to catch the retainers.
Fairly easy with what you plan on removing.
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#3 M_Dogg

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Posted 10 January 2018 - 03:22 PM

With piston at TDC it shouldn't really move down (piston and valve) when I press in new seals? In theory it seems easy but the thought of dropping the valve is scary hehe

I'll be revisiting this thread when time comes B)


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#4 OhMyGS

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Posted 10 January 2018 - 03:52 PM

Honestly, M, I would do both.  Crank the piston to TDC AND pressurize the cylinder with air.  Cant remember the part that screws into the spark plug hole, but make sure it has an air hose quick connect coupler.  Then, just set the piston at TDC, screw in the air adapter in the spark plug hole, and pressurize it.  The valve is easier to work on when it's all the way closed and the stem is sticking up farther.  Keep those valve spring keepers and small parts from falling into the engine by covering any little oil drain holes especially if the intake is removed.


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#5 OhMyGS

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Posted 10 January 2018 - 03:56 PM

Forgot to add...tap the valve stem a couple times with a small ball peen or dead blow after re-install to make sure the keepers, springs, etc. are fully seated.


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#6 M_Dogg

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Posted 10 January 2018 - 03:57 PM

Unfortunately I don't have a compressor. Was reading about the rope method, old timers stand by it and seems like it works ok. Also when you move the crank, do I need to remove the wheel or can I get to it from the engine bay? Also no need to remove the pushrods correct?

 

Sorry for stupid questions, want to absorb as much info as I can.


Edited by M_Dogg, 10 January 2018 - 04:21 PM.

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#7 OhMyGS

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Posted 10 January 2018 - 04:34 PM

Every project deserves a new tool.  Harbor Freight has some small cheap compressors.  No need to remove the push rods, but they will just be laying there in the hole once the rockers are removed.  You should be able to rotate the crankshaft by turning the bolt that holds the balancer to the crank.  It will turn over a lot easier with the sparkplugs removed.


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#8 M_Dogg

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Posted 10 January 2018 - 04:41 PM

Another debate was what PSI to use to compress the cylinder. Some say 20-40, some go 100-130 :confusion-shrug:  With that I kinda figured I'd need a bigger compressor that Iwon't be using as much.


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#9 OhMyGS

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Posted 10 January 2018 - 05:21 PM

Normal atmospheric pressure is about 15 psi at sea level...less where we are.  Not sure if the progression is linear, but with 8.5:1 compression ratio, one would think pressures in the cylinder under compression would be about 100-125 psi.  Much more when the spark ignites the air/fuel mixture.  Truthfully, I wouldn't think you would need moor than 40-50 psi.  Someone chime in here that has more experience

 

You won't need an expensive compressor to make that much pressure.  This job won't require much CFM. 

 

Right on the front page for $39.99 makes 100 psi.  https://www.harborfreight.com


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#10 scottydoggs98

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Posted 10 January 2018 - 06:31 PM

i let my compressor flow at full 125 psi out the hose into the cylinder, it pushed the piston down every time, tap the stems to stop any hissing aka leaking out the valves. then remove the keepers with a magnet after compressing the spring,  

 

as long as your this deep change the valve seals, for less then 20 bucks its worth doing.  felpro seals come with a stem condom to cover the keeper cut out so you dont damage the seal, oil the stem some before sliding it on so you dont damage it, then make sure its pushed all the way down on its stand, use a 10 mm deep socket up side down 3/8 th side down over the stem and tap on it, dont hit the stem of the valve or its dropping in.  

 

the old rope trick works well to just never did it myself.   should be able to get a socket on the crank bolt from inside the engine bay. if not taking the front wheel off aint all that bad. 


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#11 buck531

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Posted 11 January 2018 - 12:06 AM

If you do use the compressor method, get a cheap compression tester from anywhere for about $10-15 bucks. Remove the schrader valve that screws into the spark plug hole or when you go to remove the spring, you WILL drop a valve.

 

I've done valve springs/seals about 6 times so far on my Buick for various reasons (mainly popping off the valve seals due to my IC (or PCV or lack thereof)). Every time I still get paranoid when the first time I pop off the locks.


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#12 M_Dogg

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Posted 11 January 2018 - 12:12 AM

If you do use the compressor method, get a cheap compression tester from anywhere for about $10-15 bucks. Remove the schrader valve that screws into the spark plug hole or when you go to remove the spring, you WILL drop a valve.

Not sure if I got this right, I will drop a valve regardless or if I don't pull the schrader valve?


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#13 OhMyGS

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Posted 11 January 2018 - 02:36 AM

Remove the Schrader valve. That will keep the cylinder at 100 psi (or whatever pressure you set the compressor at). If you don't remove it, the cylinder might leak down, lose pressure, and drop the valve. Another reason to set the cylinder at TDC in case something does go wrong.
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#14 OhMyGS

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Posted 11 January 2018 - 02:39 AM

Ok. Old timer here, but can someone please explain the rope method? Never heard of it!
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#15 scottydoggs98

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Posted 11 January 2018 - 06:31 AM

remove spark plug, then turn the piston down via the crank bolt, then feed in a few feet of rope, then turn the engine over via the crank bolt till you feel it stop, now the rope is holding the valves up. they cant fall out now at all. 


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#16 OhMyGS

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Posted 11 January 2018 - 01:43 PM

This old dog just learned a new trick!  Thanks


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#17 tippietoejoe

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Posted 11 January 2018 - 07:05 PM

like others I have used air to force the valves up. I have never turned the motor over but, I make sure my psi is around 120 and i have no leaks...I would take the time to turn the motor just in case.....also I use a home made spring compressor / lever to remove the hardware and a strong magnet tool. I use an older leak down / cylinder compression tester from harbor freight, looks like from the website they upgraded the kit but I am sure it will still do the same or maybe you can rent a kit from a local parts store? I would recommend stuffing paper towels around the head and seeing how your going to have the blower off either tape off or lay a towel down because I have had some of the locks pop and get pretty close to losing one a time or 2. If you are going with a gen v lim I would pick up a metal blower gasket from the dealer I believe its 05+ or maybe you can find it online its well worth the money and also you might want to open the coolant passage on the end of the lim. Its a pretty simple job nothing too crazy, I was alittle reluctant when I did it on my car the first time but just make sure take your time and double check prior to moving to the next step. Also I usually lay out paper towels on the workbench and label top - bottom 1,3,5 -2,4,6 and put the push rods in order aswell as the rockers this way it all goes back together the way it came out. I am ocd and it doesnt hurt....lol


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#18 Crazyguy03

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Posted 11 January 2018 - 08:01 PM

Lmao “pop lock and drop it”
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#19 M_Dogg

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Posted 11 January 2018 - 09:18 PM

If you are going with a gen v lim I would pick up a metal blower gasket from the dealer I believe its 05+ or maybe you can find it online its well worth the money

So wtf is the difference between 04-05 and 06 onward sc gaskets? I was looking at part numbers and the metal gasket is compatible with '06 and up but will not work with 04-05.

 

2006+ Felpro MS96847

https://www.amazon.c...m/dp/B002E2OUS0

 

2004 & 2005 Felpro MS96789

https://www.amazon.c...Type=automotive

 

Also what gaskets for N* adapter plate and throttle body (or just use rtv)?


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#20 scottydoggs98

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 01:02 AM

the difference is one is paper the other is metal and re usable.  the same at the end of the day. if your tight to the hood due to a IC, paper would be better, or you can just rtv it on there. my whole ic to lim and blower to ic is all rtv. no gaskets to be found. 

 

the n* would use a gasket for a n* tb, then your adapter needs a gasket for a gen 5 tb.  or you can rtv all that too. 


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