Right Front Brake Sticking when backing out.
Posted 02 October 2018 - 10:30 PM
Posted 04 October 2018 - 02:03 PM
That's a good place to start since re-booting the car clears the problem. If your wheel bearings are getting near their end of life anyway, just replace. Then I would say the next stop is ABS module.
Posted 05 October 2018 - 03:25 AM
My car does something very similar. Sometimes it doesn't do it for several trips. Other times I'll have to restart it 4 or 5 times to get the lights off and brakes to unstick. When you turn the key off you have to wait several seconds for the red brake light to go out before restarting. Its pretty annoying.
If I'm gentle with the brakes something will release after about 1/4 mile. If you have to use the brakes too heavily the brake gets stuck on too hard and this will not happen. Addtionally, the brake will get stupid hot even in a 1/4 mile if its really stuck on.
My car is a 98 and has a separate traction control module in addtion to the abs module. This traction control module has the ability to make the brakes stick when it is not in its home position. My car has the following fault codes:
C1362 Right front traction control motor shorted to ground
C1236 Low system voltage
C1286 Brake control module turned on red brake light
U1300 Serial data circuit shorted to ground
U1016 Loss of serial data related
P1610 Theft deterrent system related
P1626 Theft deterrent system related
I think C1362 or C1236 code is 'real'. It could be the motor, wiring or drivers inside the control module is shorted. When the short occurs it drives the low voltage code. I also think its possible that some electrical connection rot is causing low voltage when the system tries to boot/initialize itself. Once the voltage is too low the system gives up, leaves the control motors in non homed positions, and stops communicating to the other control modules. Leaving the motors in unhomed position makes the brakes stick.
I had a somewhat similar problem several years ago (no rear brakes, stuck brakes, abs/brake/traction control lights). In that case I followed the code for a jammed rear abs motor. I replaced just the motor pack for the abs module (didn't even have to mess with the brake lines). The rear brake motor did have a worn bearing and was jammed up. It worked without incident for several years after that repair.
Other than pulling the codes, I have not tried to fix my current stuck brake issue. Not enough time, I've been just putting up with it.
My suggestion is get the codes and see what got. Several auto parts store chains will borrow you a scan tool that can read ABS codes.
Edited by orgedaddy, 05 October 2018 - 03:34 AM.
Posted 06 October 2018 - 11:13 AM
i have a 98 with messed up abs too. it would fail the abs self test and lock up both front brakes. pulled codes, could never get it fixed, got tired of the BS, so the abs fuse has been pulled for ohhh, 8 years now.....brakes work fantastic with no abs.
Posted 12 May 2019 - 01:12 AM
I've had this happen on a car, although it was not my '98 Buick Regal GS.
In that case it was a failed flexible brake hose. It got old and 'imploded' inside.....which acted as a check valve locking the brake pressure applied on the caliper side. You can test this by loosening the brake bleeder fitting and seeing if it suddenly unlocks it.
Edited by iTurbo, 12 May 2019 - 01:13 AM.
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