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@  Fast86GN : (10 September 2019 - 03:11 PM)

Saw a few on FB 3800 marketplace

@  BigSexxyGS : (16 August 2019 - 02:08 PM)

Im here. Looking for a trans for a 2003 GS...Help!

@  NKmssin3 : (05 August 2019 - 11:20 PM)

I check back in on occasion to.

@  Crazyguy03 : (07 July 2019 - 07:50 PM)


@  tpivette : (05 July 2019 - 02:47 AM)

I stop back every once in a while

@  ejguillot : (30 June 2019 - 08:36 PM)

Wow, is anyone on anymore? Leave a shoutbox comment please!

@  ejguillot : (10 June 2019 - 04:28 PM)

unfortunately, I have to agree.

@  buck531 : (09 June 2019 - 03:14 AM)

this place is dead.

@  buck531 : (09 June 2019 - 03:14 AM)

congrats Alan!

@  buck531 : (30 April 2019 - 02:14 PM)


@  ejguillot : (22 April 2019 - 10:40 PM)

I haven't. Still on here occasionally, Facebook is the work of Satan. :P

@  marcleach75 : (08 April 2019 - 05:22 AM)

Has anyone had an issue with wobbling at around 20 to 35 mph?

@  Tobias05 : (06 March 2019 - 09:38 PM)

...trying to convince the wife not to throw a stock replacement system back on...

@  Tobias05 : (06 March 2019 - 09:38 PM)

... i think they have a house brand muffler now? Used to be a magnaflow...

@  Fast86GN : (04 March 2019 - 07:05 PM)

I don't think it would that loud probably depends on the mufflers used?

@  Tobias05 : (01 March 2019 - 03:31 PM)

ZZP 3IN SS Regal exhaust w/plog and DP too loud for a DD?

@  tpivette : (17 February 2019 - 01:03 AM)

Don't know where on the east coast you are, but there's one for sale on craigslist in south Jersey...https://southjersey.craigslist.org/cto/d/browns-mills-98-buick-regal-gs/6779489044.html

@  Frank : (15 February 2019 - 03:42 PM)

Hello everyone! Its been a long time!. Looking to get back into the game. Anyone have a GS on the east coast they wish to part with?

@  ejguillot : (14 February 2019 - 09:08 PM)

Still have a Regal GS project that has taken way too long to build, and it's nowhere near done.

@  ejguillot : (14 February 2019 - 09:08 PM)

Same here.

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Right Front Brake Sticking when backing out.

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5 replies to this topic

#1 4boostin


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Posted 02 October 2018 - 10:30 PM

After backing out of my driveway, and putting the car in gear, I've always heard a clicking noise, which I assumed was the ABS.  Lately, after putting the car in drive, I hear the clicking noise and the ABS light, and the brake light come on and the brakes are stuck on as if I am pushing on the brake pedal when I try to accelerate.  On one occasion when this happened, I drove for a block and then felt all the rotors.  The right front rotor was too hot to touch compared to the others, which were just warm.  If I put the car in Park, shut it off and restart it, the ABS and brake light are off and I can feel the stuck brake release when I start to accelerate.  I can now drive for miles and miles in stop and go traffic without a problem.  After being parked for a few minutes to several hours, the problem happens all over again.  
Is my right front ABS sensor bad??  

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#2 OhMyGS


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Posted 04 October 2018 - 02:03 PM

That's a good place to start since re-booting the car clears the problem.  If your wheel bearings are getting near their end of life anyway, just replace.  Then I would say the next stop is ABS module.

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#3 orgedaddy



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Posted 05 October 2018 - 03:25 AM

My car does something very similar.  Sometimes it doesn't do it for several trips.  Other times I'll have to restart it 4 or 5 times to get the lights off and brakes to unstick. When you turn the key off you have to wait several seconds for the red brake light to go out before restarting.  Its pretty annoying.  

If I'm gentle with the brakes something will release after about 1/4 mile.  If you have to use the brakes too heavily the brake gets stuck on too hard and this will not happen.  Addtionally, the brake will get stupid hot even in a 1/4 mile if its really stuck on.

My car is a 98 and has a separate traction control module in addtion to the abs module.  This traction control module has the ability to make the brakes stick when it is not in its home position.  My car has the following fault codes:

C1362 Right front traction control motor shorted to ground

C1236 Low system voltage

C1286 Brake control module turned on red brake light

U1300 Serial data circuit shorted to ground

U1016 Loss of serial data related

P1610 Theft deterrent system related

P1626 Theft deterrent system related


I think C1362 or C1236 code is 'real'.  It could be the motor, wiring or drivers inside the control module is shorted.  When the short occurs it drives the low voltage code.  I also think its possible that some electrical connection rot is causing low voltage when the system tries to boot/initialize itself.  Once the voltage is too low the system gives up, leaves the control motors in non homed positions, and stops communicating to the other control modules.  Leaving the motors in unhomed position makes the brakes stick.


I had a somewhat similar problem several years ago (no rear brakes, stuck brakes, abs/brake/traction control lights).  In that case I followed the code for a jammed rear abs motor.  I replaced just the motor pack for the abs module (didn't even have to mess with the brake lines).  The rear brake motor did have a worn bearing and was jammed up.  It worked without incident for several years after that repair.


Other than pulling the codes, I have not tried to fix my current stuck brake issue.  Not enough time, I've been just putting up with it.


My suggestion is get the codes and see what got.  Several auto parts store chains will borrow you a scan tool that can read ABS codes.



Edited by orgedaddy, 05 October 2018 - 03:34 AM.

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#4 scottydoggs98


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Posted 06 October 2018 - 11:13 AM

i have a 98 with messed up abs too. it would fail the abs self test and lock up both front brakes.  pulled codes, could never get it fixed, got tired of the BS, so the abs fuse has been pulled for ohhh, 8 years now.....brakes work fantastic with no abs. 

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#5 iTurbo


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Posted 12 May 2019 - 01:12 AM

I've had this happen on a car, although it was not my '98 Buick Regal GS.


In that case it was a failed flexible brake hose. It got old and 'imploded' inside.....which acted as a check valve locking the brake pressure applied on the caliper side. You can test this by loosening the brake bleeder fitting and seeing if it suddenly unlocks it.

Edited by iTurbo, 12 May 2019 - 01:13 AM.

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#6 OhMyGS


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Posted 12 May 2019 - 05:07 AM

I've heard that can happen too. Crazy, but makes sense.
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