Ignition switch symptoms
Posted 08 November 2019 - 08:06 PM
I’m thinking it’s the ignition switch because the key inserts and turns fine, everything powers up when I go to start, there’s a click, and then nothing. If I wait a few minutes, some times a half hour, it starts just fine. Sometimes if I turn the key all way to the on position and then off 3-4 times, it’ll start up. Others, I have to wait
Does this sound like an ignition switch, a 2nd bad starter, or maybe an electrical issue killing my starters?
Posted 08 November 2019 - 11:11 PM
Posted 08 November 2019 - 11:24 PM
Posted 11 November 2019 - 04:55 PM
I’ll have it tested and recheck connections but I tried jumping it once thinking that was it and it still wouldn’t start
If you have bad connections like OhMyGS said then it may not jump start. Did you get it checked out?
Posted 16 November 2019 - 02:20 PM
As said by OhMyGS and Fast86GN, you'll want to verify that the wiring and connections are working as expected.
As these cars age, I find the wiring does need some attention and remediation to prevent problems (replacing the black harness sleeves is a common thing, after 20 years of heat soaking the plastic crumbles like old crackers).
Posted 25 November 2019 - 01:04 AM
Posted 26 November 2019 - 03:22 AM
Posted 26 November 2019 - 03:26 AM
Posted 26 November 2019 - 04:14 AM
You can certainly do that. It would be easier (and a better test) to connect the positive battery terminal to the solenoid terminal that engages the solenoid.
Regarding engine grounds, there is (or should be) a fairly substantial ground cable bolted from the negative battery terminal to the engine/trans bellhousing bolt nearest the starter. There is also a smaller diameter ground cable from the negative terminal to the chassis (less than a foot run, ends more or less underneath the under hood fuse block). The chassis connection for that cable on my Regal wasn't that good - I made and ran a cable from the negative terminal to the bolt on the chassis brace that runs over the battery.
Test the ground cable and positive cable (from battery to starter) this way (straight out of the FSM):
Measurements are engine off, all cables attached as normal.
Positive cable: With a meter, first measure the voltage between negative and positive terminals. Then measure from negative terminal to the starter solenoid terminal that the positive cable attaches to. The difference in the measurements should be less than 0.4 volts.
Ground cable: With a meter, first measure the voltage between negative and positive terminals. Then measure from positive terminal to the engine block, then to a bare chassis point. The difference in the measurements should be less than 0.4 volts.
Try that and let us know the result.
Edited by ejguillot, 05 December 2019 - 12:14 AM.
Posted 26 November 2019 - 11:20 AM
Posted 04 December 2019 - 06:59 PM
Seems to be starting now, but it still occasionally does the thing where it clicks once and then doesn’t turn over
Posted 05 December 2019 - 02:14 AM
The one that ended underneath the fuse block? That's the one that I found lacking. Definitely consider running an additional ground from the chassis to the negative battery post.
Posted 05 December 2019 - 09:01 AM
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