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@  Marchi1 : (22 July 2021 - 05:30 PM)

Its even worse... he has been a memeber for 13 years and has 2 active posts.....

@  dezldave961 : (21 July 2021 - 11:38 PM)

Some people don't know how the internet works, and think deleting after posting somehow works like an Etch-A-Sketch. (You made 2 posts 13yrs ago about fixing an ignition switch, which I'd never know if you didn't ask about deleting... Look up Streisand Effect.)

@  Marchi1 : (21 July 2021 - 01:53 AM)

and just quit using it. there is very little update and while I can delete it why would you?

@  Marchi1 : (21 July 2021 - 01:52 AM)

that hurst I have been here in less than months

@  esqueue : (15 July 2021 - 05:50 PM)

A moderator hasn't been here for months

@  esqueue : (15 July 2021 - 05:48 PM)

How do I get my account deleted?

@  sky72lark : (25 June 2021 - 01:20 AM)


@  dezldave961 : (16 June 2021 - 11:10 PM)

Good deal. I'll be resolving some issues when I get back from a work trip, as well.

@  ejguillot : (14 June 2021 - 01:05 PM)

Also rechecked the flexplate and rocker arm bolts, all were torqued to spec.

@  ejguillot : (14 June 2021 - 01:05 PM)

Update on the tap/knock noise: resolved most of it by resealing my exhaust. Front header to crossover pipe leak - noise at 1/2 engine RPM.

@  ejguillot : (04 June 2021 - 07:15 PM)

I'll recheck those, thanks for the heads up.

@  dezldave961 : (03 June 2021 - 04:50 PM)

Also, check that the rockers are all torqued, still. Re-usable bolts like to be around 25 or so, but settling in from running may back one out that was torqued while partially under load on a cam lobe.

@  dezldave961 : (03 June 2021 - 04:48 PM)

Did you do anything with the flexplate? Those 3 bolts tend to come loose and rattle over time, if not torqued with loctite.

@  ejguillot : (03 June 2021 - 04:46 PM)

doing OK. Tune's all fixed, but hearing a tap/knock noise from my engine that is no longer fading with higher RPM. Not good.

@  Nateteo : (27 May 2021 - 09:03 PM)

1/3 of the way done doing my lower and resealing everything on the top end. hows everyone's week been so far.

@  dezldave961 : (11 May 2021 - 09:07 PM)

It could be real, just very incorrect A/F for the range it's crossing.

@  ejguillot : (11 May 2021 - 02:54 PM)

Any advice on identifying false KR? I'm getting KR blips when rolling into the throttle, and that with the blower belt off.

@  ejguillot : (11 May 2021 - 01:15 AM)

Hi everyone. Still working on my project regal, chasing down powertrain issues.

@  dezldave961 : (01 May 2021 - 08:44 PM)

Yikes, well hope you guys get that resolved, so it stays active enough to remain viable.

@  WildGS : (30 April 2021 - 07:59 PM)

the sign in process is broke because the captcha is non-functional. That is why no new members.

Highest Reputation Content

#262455 Newbie Guide

Posted by kevandkaye on 19 September 2010 - 05:17 PM

So you bought a Regal GS/GSE/GSX?

Great! You bought a Regal GS, GSE, or GSX! Good Choice. Let's talk now about a few of the basics. We have a couple of major things that we need to go fast, we need fuel, and we need air, and we DON'T need heat. That is Modding for speed in a nutshell. What we will talk about will get us better fuel usage, more air, and less heat. With that said we will see major gains in HP at the wheels.

Let's Start with Air. For GM HP is not the main concern on our cars. They are designed to be quiet, and efficient with no real emphasis on sound or performance. That is a problem for us though because as we mod we need to get this car as much fresh, cool air as possible. Colder Air is denser Air. Denser Air = more Horsepower. We have a few options to consider when making a change to our car's air intake setup. They really depend on how handy you are, and how much cash you want to fork out! Before you jump into this next mod, a thing to note is that your car will no longer sound like a pussy grandpa car, it will have a distinct "whine" that will be quite a bit louder on the outside, and noticeable on the inside cabin.

Here are some options:

1.) Gut the standard Air box and use a drop in K&N Panel Filter

This is the cheapest and easiest thing to do. I will not go into nauseating details here, that is what the “SEARCH” button is for on the National Site. Total cost breaks down like this:

Labor—FREE You do it yourself

Filter— $35.00 K&N Panel

Difficulty—3/10 (In my opinion)

2.) Go with an aftermarket setup.

This is probably the most expensive, but also the most “stock looking” fit. Personally I think that the "do it yourself" mods are much more satisfying, and unless you have a pretty thick wallet are a better choice.

Labor — Free You do it yourself

Hardware, which includes the box, the clamps, and a K&N Cone filter will run between $199.00 and $250.00. Yikes in my book….


3.) Create your own FWI / CAI

This is BY-FAR the best alternative. Although it may take a couple of tries to get it perfect, this is the best way to make a CAI or FWI for the least amount of cash, with the most amount of satisfaction and performance.

Labor—FREE You do it yourself

Parts—Depends on FWI or CAI. Roughly $50.00 either way


Here are some “Pre-Searched” links for you to start with:

Homemade CAI—http://www.regalgs.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17196&highlight=cai

Gutted Airbox—http://www.regalgs.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13022&highlight=gutting



Homemade FWI—http://www.regalgs.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17914&highlight=homemade+fwi

OK...enough to get you started on the Airbox.

Lets move on to fuel consumption and heat. Although the Air Intake mode also addresses heat, this portion will attack it as well.

Plugs & Wires

Because of the heat generated by the air being compressed by the supercharger, we are very prone to KR. 99% of us actually spend more on combating KR than on implementing new go fast parts and modifications. Part of reducing KR is to reduce heat. Platinum and Iridium plugs look cool, and cost WAY too much, and on top of that they do not dissipate heat at any rate that could be considered “fast”. Copper on the other hand does. That is the Upside of copper. The DOWNside of copper is that it does not last very long, and the plugs will need to be changed more rapidly. Most of the 3800 series owners will recommend the Autolite 104 model plugs. They are less than a buck each, and provide 2 ranges colder than stock rating. Your brand is your decision, personally I like NGK, but many do not. Consensus wise, the Autolite 104’s are the best bang for the buck.

Changing the front three plugs is a breeze! 5 minutes with a minimum of tools and you are all done right? NOPE. The next most asked question by Newbies is “How the hell do I change the back plugs?” Well, it is very easy actually, just a bit intimidating at first.

There are two motor mounts in the front of the car which are called Dog-Bones. Remove them and then follow any of the methods below:

1.) Use a ratchet strap (I call it a come-a-long) and attach one end in the back motor bracket, the other to the frame of the car in front by the Airbox and simply ratchet it down until you can reach the plugs.

2.) Have some one in the drivers seat. Push the car forward and back while in park and when the motor comes forward enough, yell at them to hit the E-Brake.

3.) Go to an APS and buy the designed tool for $50.00. <—— Not me man…

Almost EVERYONE will tell you that if you are going to change the wires, get GM OEM Replacements!!! Do NOT get any aftermarket brand, as again in the majority of cases they are not as good and will fail much earlier. I personally use Taylor Spiro Pro 8mm and have had two sets go bad in 1 year...at 100 per set, I am not happy.

OK, there is Plugs and Wires! You are well on the way.


Moving on now, lets talk about the temperature of your coolant… Chances are that you have a standard 195* thermostat right? Yep, thought so. Get rid of it. This mod is SUPER easy and just as inexpensive. Hit one of the links on the vendor page, and get yourself a 180* thermostat. Drill a single 1/8” hole in the outer ring and replace the 195 in the car. DONE!! This mod is a very cheap and easy mods that can kill some KR. This not only keeps the car running cooler, but because it is drilled, coolant is always flowing. Here on the east coast I worry about the motor heating up to 195* and all of a sudden hot coolant being dumped into a cold motor when the thermostat opens up. This addresses that problem.

Lets talk exhaust for a minute now. We know that we now have made it easier for the engine to breath and have added plugs and wires to make it fire more efficiently right? So what now happened is that we need to get the exhaust out just as fast with as little restriction as possible.

U-bend / Down Pipe and Resonator

The idiots at GM decided that to make the O2 sensor safer, they would put a “Ubend” in the exhaust. Climb under your car, and find the cat. See that ugly “U” shaped piece? It HAS TO GO! Along with it is the long tube shaped resonator, which when removed will add a VERY LITTLE more sound to the car. The DP must also be replaced, as the U-bend and the DP are the two major constrictions in the exhaust flow. Unless you have a welder and some cutting equipment, this will need to be done at any local exhaust shop. Explain to them that you want the U-bend removed and replaced with a standard pipe, and make sure that the measure the distance of the O2 so that they can weld in the bung for it into the new pipe in the right spot. If it is off, you may get an ses. The DP is an entirely different animal. You will need to purchase on from someone on the vendor page and then have it installed. I have not seen any local shops who are willing to fabricate one for you. The Dp is upwards of $100.00 and the U-bend replacement averages $70.00— $100.00 as well. These mods are VERY IMPORTANT—don’t put them at the end of the list of to-do’s! Without making these modifications, don't bother going any further.


There are many different "retail" setups that can be purchased for around 600.00 plus install, or you can visit a local muffler shop and have one built for somewhat less. By the time this is coming up, you have already opened up the front of the exhaust, and now it is time for the rest. The pipe from the cat to the "S" pipe is pretty small, and most people replace this with a 2.5" or 3" setup.


Depending on the intent of your mods, this is definitely one you need to consider. When I dropped the stock muffler, I gained 2 tenths instantly. There are many different mufflers out there in a variety of configurations that are from very loud drone to very acceptable, and it is all personal preference.

O2 Sensor Simulator

Now that you have removed the U-bend and DP many of our cars will throw an SES code for the Rear O2 sensor...Don't panic. Go to the vendor pages and get an O2 Simulator. It is a pretty cheap part and will plug in where the rear O2 sensor does. If you are running OK with no SES for more than a couple of weeks without it, Good for you, you can skip this one.

Scanner / Tuner

We will again touch on this later in the guide, but by now you have all of the basic mods you need to get some decent power from your Regal. You have to make a choice now. Either you are done modding, or you are not. If you are not then you need to make another major purchase. There are many scanners out there, and a couple of tuners too. Scanners like the LS1M and the Autotap are VERY good and highly regarded. The scanner is the cheaper of the two options but is limited in what it can really do for you. If you want to "see" what is going on, and capture data as well as reset SES's and your intention is to do just a couple more mods, then this is the option for you. If you plan on going further and getting serious, please take the time to research both of the tuner options out there. There is a DHP Power Tuner, and the HP Tuners Tuner. Both have their fans and critics, and that is important to keep in mind as many of the forums we visit are sponsored by either company! With a tuner you can not only "see" and capture the data as well as clear an SES you can actually make programming changes to the PCM. It is a bit of a challenge at first, but the satisfaction of seeing 18 - 20* of timing with NO KR is worth the learning curve!

I cannot stress enough that this is the point where you need to make this decision. Going on without a scanner or tuner to the more advanced mods will more than likely get you a popped piston or even worse. Heed the warning and do your research! Here are the links for the scanners and tuners.

Autotap Scanner: http://www.autotap.com/

LS1M Scanner: http://ls1m.com/

DHP Power Tuner:

HP Tuners: http://www.hptuners.com/



The Supercharger comes stock with a 3.8” pulley. That is the size that was able to pass testing standards at GM. We are going to change that and add between 30 and 40 HP to your car.

Go to any of the sites on the vendor page and get yourself a new pulley. You need a 3.4” pulley—NO SMALLER (at least not with these mods) . If you plan on modding further, than get a MPS. DO NOT get anything smaller with this level of mods or you will , and I mean WILL pop a piston. This is absolutely NO JOKE, and as you read through the site, you will see that others have not heeded the warning and have paid DEARLY!

Along with getting the pulley, you will need to either purchase, rent or borrow a pulley puller. DO NOT even bother trying to use a gear puller, or you will be paying two thousand for a new supercharger. This puller is a specifically designed tool for our cars. Buying it is kind of cool so you always have one, but in my opinion, renting is better, and borrowing is best! Buying a puller will run between $100—$150, renting is $35—$50 and borrowing is FREE!!! Check the board and see if any members are close to you. Get to know them and become friends—they are your best resource to adding new mods for as cheap as possible.

Installing the new pulley requires two people. If you want to waste your time and try it alone, go ahead. You will brake the studs that come with it and have to get more. I recommend getting someone to help you who has already done this before. Install time is < 1 hour if it all goes OK. You will need a large set of wrenches too, as the size is not included in a regular set of tools.

Go for a drive and see what it feels like….you like it don’t you?

OK. Next Mod should be a standard mod, but a lot of the guys still do not see it that way, so this is my opinion only.

PCM / Tuner

The PCM is the brain in your car. However when you start to mod, the brain goes brain – dead! You need to get it "flashed" with a new brain, or replace the brain with settings designed for your mods. What you have done to this point requires ALL of the preceding mods done before it you can go with either a DHP pcm or an Intense Standard pcm.

These are two companies who will sell you a new pre-programmed PCM. The PCM will have different "code" in it to enhance fuel and spark, and hundreds of other options.

With the PCM - there is another option to explore if you are planning on modding more that what we have talked about. That option is to buy a Tuner instead of a new PCM. A tuner will allow you to make changes to your existing PCM at will. The cost is somewhat higher, but if you are going to continue to mod, you may as well go this route.

Installation is super easy and will again take less than 1 hour of your time. Some companies charge a core fee which is returned to you after you install the new PCM and return the old one to them. Pricing will range from $99.00 to $199.99 depending on what you decide.

Still not done?

There are a multitude of Mods that go into what we would describe as "heavily mods". Some of the option are Inter-cooling, Cam upgrades, Porting work on heads and the M90, S/C upgrade to Gen V, and on and on.... With these mods also comes cost and the need for a much higher degree of knowledge about the internal workings of our engines. Also keep in mind, that the heavier mods also produce a lot more stress on the vehicle, in particular the Transmission. That component id the single biggest point of failure to watch for. You should consider upgrading or replacing the transmission and axles to prevent major damage to you and the vehicle. Too often have we seen people doing 360's down the track with a broken axle, or blowing a Tranny because of 10K in mods, except for the trans. Also keep in mind when doing the Tranny work that the torque converter and the differential will need to be upgraded as well to get maximum performance and stability.


Well if you are this far you have more than likely made a lot of progress in learning about your regal, and probably have well over a 100 posts in the forums at RegalGS. These mods are pretty much everything you need to get to the level of "mild" Modded status. There are many many many more mods that you can do depending on your level of expertise and the cash flow. I hope this small guide has been helpful to you. Thanks for taking the time to read it!


  • 6

#320077 DIY: Plastic gas tank upgrade

Posted by OH2LS on 05 March 2012 - 01:08 AM

Ok, since I searched and searched and searched before I did this to find out if anyone has done it and only found answers like "it should work" I figured I'd do a DIY for everyone that wants to do this.

Things you'll need....
1. Plastic tank complete with pump and plastic fuel lines all down to the fuel filter and steel fittings, and the 5/8ths vent hose from the charcoal canister on the new tank
2. Filler neck and fill hose from the car that the tank came from.
3. Fuel tank straps from the car with the plastic tank.
4. 5/8ths double sided barbed fitting

Tools needed...
15mm swivel socket and a long extension and socket wrench 3/8ths drive.
5/16ths socket or flat screwdriver for hose clamps
10mm socket with short extension
Phillips screwdriver
Floor jack, chocks, and jack stands

1. First step is to make sure you have a nearly empty tank or pump all the fuel out into a gas can. This is up to you on how you do it. I used a fuel pressure gauge attached to the fuel rail with a drain hose on the other end of the gauge while jumping the fuel pump relay to pump the tank dry.

2. Jack the car up by the rear subframe and put jack stands on the rear unibody frame rails to hold the car up.

3. Disconnect the fuel lines at the filter and drain any remaining fuel into a small drain pan. These are clip together quick disconnect lines. I find a pick or small flat blade screwdriver may help you get these off.

4. Remove the access panel in the trunk by removing the 10mm speed nuts and disconnect the electrical connectors and the fuel lines at the pump.

5. Pull the left rear tire and the rear wheel well splash guard by removing the 2x10mm speed nuts and two Phillips head screws exposing the charcoal canister and vent solenoid. remove the 10mm screw from the canister bracket and you can remove the canister. Make sure you unplug the vent solenoid electrical connector and remove the quick disconnect vent line. You'll need the 5/8ths vent hose attached to the solenoid and the canister so remove it from the canister and set aside. The plastic tank has the charcoal canister attached to the tank. You'll use the new one.

6. Time to get under the car and disconnect any and all quick connect lines that you can see. There are a bunch, it's pretty ridiculous.

7. Using a long flat blade screwdriver or the 5/16 1/4 inch drive socket with a long extension, loosen the hose clamp holding the filler tube on the back of the tank and pull the hose off the tank.

8. Place the floor jack with a piece of wood on it under the gas tank to diffuse the weight. Jack it up just enough to start putting pressure on the tank. Use the 15mm swivel socket, extension, and socket wrench to go through the rear subframe and remove the two 15mm bolts holding the tank straps up. Once removed, pull the straps down and let them drop. They'll pivot on the front joints.

9. Pull your exhaust hangers off up to the donuts holding the downpipe on and let the exhaust sag, you'll need to do this for clearance to get the tank out.

10. Slowly drop the tank down until you can reach up and disconnect the vent line from the tank to the charcoal canister, being careful to let the filler port on the back of the tank not hang up on the rear subframe. Slide the tank out and remove any other old quick connect lines under the car.

11. Feel free to do any cleaning, rustproofing, undercoating at this step since you'll have a ton of room to work with. If not, at this stage you'll remove the old tank straps and install the new ones for the plastic tank. This can be done by pivoting them out of the forward slots in the floor.

12. This is optional if you have the new filler spout. Go ahead and install it with the fill hose from the car you got the new tank from. If not, you'll have to cap off the vent line on your filler spout and cut and extend the fill hose by 2.5 inches with a 1 inch diameter by 4 or 5 inch piece of exhaust tube or galvanized plumbing tube and hose clamps. this is because the fill port on the new tank is 2.5 inches further to the right on the new tank because the charcoal canister is built on the new tank.

13. Remove the exhaust heat shield from the plastic tank and set aside for now. You'll put it back on once the tank is up. Slide the new tank up in place and jack it up careful that the fill port clears the rear subframe. Route the vent hose from the charcoal canister on the tank towards the previous location of the old canister.

14. Attach and start the bolts for the tank straps by a few threads, then go up to the access port in the trunk and attach the electrical lines. These are easier to connect with the tank down just a hair for more finger room. Back under and run the bolts up tight for the tank straps and remove the jack. You can reinstall the exhaust heat shield now that the straps are in place.

15. Attach and clamp down the filler hose to the tank, and attach the fuel lines at the filter and return. There's a slight change in the evap line connection. On the new connection it's the same style as the fuel line quick connect with the little plastic retainer instead of it being a squeeze and release. You'll see what I mean when you're down there. . You'll need to take the quick disconnect plastic retainer off the return line connection on your old fuel pump and use it to connect the evap line to your steel line by the fuel filter.

16. Attach the new 5/8ths vent hose to your old one with the bared fitting and run it back into the wheel well where your old charcoal canister was and attach the vent solenoid to the bracket in there from the old canister. Plug in the electrical connector to the solenoid.

17. Reinstall the inner fender liner and reinstall your left rear wheel and lower the car on to the ground.

18. This is an important step as the newer style fuel pumps aren't a dual speed pump, you need to remove your passenger headlight and locate the connector for your fuel pump resistor. Cut the wires on the resistor side of the connector and splice them together with an all weather crimp connector. This will ensure that the pump gets full voltage.

19. Put gas in the tank from what you removed from the old tank and cycle the key a few times to build pressure. Fire it up and check for leaks and you're done!

One thing I noticed right off the bat is the newer fuel pump is WAY quieter than the one in the steel tank. This is also a great upgrade to consider if your tank is rusty and looking like it won't last another salty winter. When I removed the old tank I was amazed at how rusty it was and how it hadn't leaked yet. The bottom of the tank looked great, but the top and sides were rusty as hell. Hope this helps anyone considering a tank swap. As far as I know I'm the first to do it since there are no other threads on it on the several forums I belong to.
  • 5

#264038 DIY Changing Fuel Filter

Posted by Chrisolds on 20 October 2010 - 07:19 PM

Click on the link below to see pictures on how to change your fuel filter

http://s1033.photobu...ter Change DIY/

click on the picture to enlarge it start at the new filter PICTURE as step #1.

This does not take long to do so do it if you haven't in a while the whole process should take around 45 mins after clean up as long as all goes well! Maybe less I can do this in 10-15 mins now I have done so many.

Good Luck,
  • 5

#338208 What do you say to your Mom?

Posted by buck531 on 09 August 2012 - 06:20 AM

As some of you know my Dad is in an assisted living community as he fell months ago and had a stroke. Parkinsons is owning him. Yesterday he told my mom

"Maybe I'll be seeing Scott soon".

Scott is my brother. He passed away at the age of 23 due to cancer. I was 15.

What the hell do you tell your mom? There just aren't any words.

This sucks.
  • 4

#323195 For Sale: 2012 Regal GS

Posted by glendayle on 22 March 2012 - 04:01 PM

Seriously? You joined this site this morning just to post a new car for sale?!

Ironically, my 12 yo GS is faster than the new one. I'll keep my 35k thanks.
  • 4

#318082 DIY "Tint" headlights

Posted by BadAzzRegalGSX on 20 February 2012 - 02:09 AM

Been asked a bunch of times from members here to do a write up for this and here it goes.

You will need a few supplies

Tape i use the scotch delicate surfaces tape to keep the chrome on!
Posted Image

Then some paint i use Rust Oleum satin black.
Posted Image

Ok first preheat the oven to 250*
Pull all the bulbs and little rubber bits off while oven is warming up and put in a lil bag.
Now get a cookie sheet and put the headlight on it let it sit in the oven for 8 minutes .
Next pull it back out it will be hot!!!
I used a butter knife to seperate start by turn signal side and go around and pop the clips loose working all the way around pull easy and it will come right apart!
Watch out that you do not get the glue on the chrome...
It will now look like so.
Posted Image
Now let it cool and tape the parts you want to stay chrome!!!

Posted Image
Now wait for it to dry and pull tape.
Ok now it will look like so!
Posted Image
Also i choose to VHT niteshade the side amber lens.
So now your ready to put it back together!!!
Just fit the lens to the headlight bucket and put back in the oven at 250* for 8 more minutes .
Ok now just push back together and once cooled go around with some clear silicon to make sure it is good and sealed .
It now will look like so!
Posted Image
Posted Image
  • 4

#298420 DIY: How to make a Urethane filled stock motor mount

Posted by OH2LS on 22 August 2011 - 06:22 PM

Click the links for larger pics. They were uploaded long ago on Webshots.

Step 1-
Obtain a standard hydraulic style motor mount. Doesn't matter brand. By the time you're done it'll be better than any stock mount.

Step 2-
Cut out the corners of the mount on each side, and drain the fluid out. It has the consistency of transmission fluid. Shoot some brake cleaner in there to clear any excess fluid out and make sure it's all clean inside.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Step 3-
Drill 4 holes in the top of the mount to ensure full coverage inside and to vent any air out.

Posted Image

Step 4-
Obtain some urethane mix for pouring into the mount. I got mine from McMaster Carr. Ended up being just more than enough to do the job. I've long since lost the part number but the hardness rating was Shore 94. Hard stuff, probably harder than any off the shelf poly mount you can buy.

Posted Image

Step 5-
Pour the mix into the corners until it fills up. Then pour the rest on the top to fill that little cavity where you drilled the 4 holes. Let cure for a few days and install!

Posted Image

Step 6-
Replace your old mount with the new one!

Posted Image

Posted Image
  • 4

#286325 What is your philosophy on life?

Posted by Gizhost on 04 May 2011 - 01:51 PM

A good friend of mine at work introduced me to the, "It is what it is" phrase...and I think that pretty much encompasses how I feel about things most of the time. Enjoy life, family and 'true' friends, don't sweat the small stuff, try to better yourself and help others to do the same along the way. Stay away from people who are constantly negative and attempt to force their negative views on you, be your own person, remember that you have to live with the decisions you make at the end of the day, keep in mind that regardless of the company you keep you're pretty much alone out there so don't always think that those around you have your best interest at heart because very few actually do.
  • 4

#271295 Throwing code C1218

Posted by Blackout_GS on 06 January 2011 - 05:00 AM

No problem. I work at a dealership so I have me some access to GM service information.
  • 4

#270039 Silly ricer, lol

Posted by dlclarkii on 22 December 2010 - 01:52 AM

Merry Christmas and happy holidays to RegalGS.org. Posted Image

I post this every year for Christmas! :greetings-clappingyellow:

Twas the night before Christmas and caught at the light,
Was a Regal with a Supercharged badge and no cops in sight,
I will try, I will try, I will try with this 2 liter motor,
To beat this Regal, even with it's blower.

As light goes to green and I pull like no joke,
The Regal's right wheel erupts in clouds of tire smoke.
Now Smasher, now Rev-ver, now Stroker, now Blitzin,
These are the names of my four VTEC pistons.

Racing ahead I'm the Star of the action,
But I know I'm in trouble when that blown Regal gets traction.
Grabbing second, I hear the RPM sing,
My rearview mirror is blocked by my Shopping Kart Wing.

I now hear the blower whine, of that 3800 gaining.
All I can do is keep that four-banger straining.
In a second, the shockwave hits with a blast,
And my stickers go flying, now a thing of the past.

Don't bother with third, 'cause now it's too late,
Just try to act cool, like you can relate.

Looking up at the taillights as they get smaller,
The driver backs off just to give me a holler,
"You can't win them all," he says in fling,
"You may not win any in that silly thing,"

I scowled and I revved and let out a sigh,
& did my classic trademark high speed fly-by,
Then I smiled and revved as I pulled out of sight,
With my new mods tomorrow, it will be a better night."

  • 4

#347060 What I did Thanksgiving morning/afternoon...

Posted by RegalGShocker on 23 November 2012 - 10:27 PM

Well, I like to help others out in a time of need when I have the opportunity to. Just something for others to think about that are a little less unfortunate...

Now this is such a small dent but I went to my local food store and ordered 20+ rotisserie chickens made to eat. I also had bottled water, silverware and hand warmers (even thou it was 65* in Wisconsin!)
I drove around with my friend and nephew picking out random homeless people on the streets which several of them were looking into garbages at the time we gave them a bag of goodies. It was nice to see the look on there face which made it worth while. Wish I could have gave more to the hundreds of people I seen but at least those hundreds were standing at churches in line.

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#337529 **Official Regal Picture Page**

Posted by Guest on 03 August 2012 - 12:43 AM

After 7yrs, still looks ok for all the weather its been thru. Need a paint job and other lil things done..........

Attached Files

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#335135 Alldata link with username/password

Posted by buck531 on 05 July 2012 - 05:59 AM

Figured you folks would use this. It's a repair manual for pretty much any car you want. No idea how long it'll last. I found it on another forum. Probably not long. So I'd get what you want/can and save it to a PDF or MS word doc when you can.


user name: mtlib_2_1120

pass: discovery

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#323238 For Sale: 2012 Regal GS

Posted by glendayle on 22 March 2012 - 08:22 PM

Rep ? I just checked mine. It's only 13. With as many helpful posts as we have , I doubt this rep system is an accurate gauge for your character on the board anyways.

I don't ever look/care, except that my post has a big red "-1" on it.

y the attitude cuz i work at a dealer? makes alot of sense...i have helped alot of people on forum boards with parts, unknown issues with vehicles, and ive found several vehicles for people looking for something particular, not to mention ive made alot of friends and learned alot about cars from these boards..that is why im here...ive answered 2 emails from people asking questions about the new GS's since i posted the car on here that had nothing to do with buying one if u think im only here to try to sell cars or something...i see older GS's everyday and talk to the people who drive them and can provide a wealth of information about the cars and i have access to every part or accessory new or used for buick vehicles..not to mention i can get pretty much anything anyone is looking for in a Buick or GMC vehicle in usually 24 hours new or used and most chevys and cadillacs also...if you dont want to be friends thats fine believe me your not gonna hurt my feelings..but i assure you some people on here will find me helpful

My "attitude" has nothing to do with you being a dealer. How about having an intro thread that says something along the lines of. "Hi, I'm Mike. I work at _____ I joined your forum this morning. Obviously I sell cars and would love to talk to any of you with questions around the brand new GS. In fact, check out the for sale section where I've posted a good deal I have right now.(link). In addition, My background is w Ford and the SVT line. I was actively involved in several of those forums before I switched over to the current Buick dealership where I work now. I'm also very familiar with the W-bodiy platform and in general am a car enthusiest.. ...."

When you join a forum and the very 1st post is about your car for sale I think that takes from credibility. Certainly I think people that work at dealerships can be an asset to a community like this due to access to various tools/mechanics and being in the industry. I just think your method of introduction didn't strike the proper cord with me.

I will recant my negative statement, and say Welcome and enjoy!
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#274941 DIY: Oil pan gasket replacement

Posted by glendayle on 05 February 2011 - 10:33 PM

This is from about 1 year ago.

I've had a bad oil pan gasket for quite some time now. I finally got mine replaced yesterday. I'm sure that there is more than one way to do some of the steps in this repair, and you may opt to do some steps in a slightly different order, but this is what I did and it worked great for me. A few things to consider while doing this. Check the condition of your motor mounts prior to doing this repair. Many stock motor mounts fail, yours may need to be replaced, and there would not be a better time to do this. If your motor mount has been bad for a long period of time, your motor mount bracket may be damaged as well. As far as the gasket itself. I ordered the lower engine gasket set from rockauto and it cost about $30 or so. Also, I attempted this repair and was thwarted and had to do it again later. The one item I would suggest picking up is an extra long 15mm open ended wrench. While this is not necessarily needed, the motor mount bracket bolts were difficult to get to and for me I was unable to get them without this tool. I purchased an extra long 15mm open ended wrench for the 2nd oil pan replacement attempt and it made all the difference for me. *added* The other tool I forgot to mention that I bought was a deep double offset wrench(15mm) that was useful on the front motor mount bracket bolts.

You will need to raise the motor in the engine compartment. Depending on what equipment you have, this can be accomplished by raising the engine from above via cherry picker/engine bar or from below. I opted to use a floor jack from below. Please know how to safely use any of this equipment before you start so that you don't cause any damage to your vehicle, or worse yet, to yourself.

1. Support vehicle

2. Remove oil plug to drain oil and remove oil filter.

3. Disconnect the dogbone bolts so that the engine can move freely within the engine compartment(15mm).

4. Loosen the rear cradle bolts(not necessary, but I found this helped me, plus I already had it loose from a sway bar swap)
Loosen(but don't remove) the engine mount bolts(15mm). There are 5 all together(2 on the front side, 3 on the back). The upper one on the front was difficult to get to, but a deep offset wrench works. The 3 in the back were removed with a long 15mm wrench.

5. Place floor jack under transmission pan. I used a 4x4 block to prevent any damage to the pan.

6. Now you can remove the motor mount bolts altogether.

7. Remove the 2 nuts(15mm) that connect the motor mount to the cradle.

8. Remove the 2 nuts(15mm?) that connect the motor mount to the motor mount bracket. I've also outlined in blue the motor mount bracket just in case you aren't sure what that is.

9. Now you can carefully raise the engine using the floor jack.

When you have moved this enough, you will be able to remove the motor mount and the motor mount bracket. Some have said that if you leave one of the bolts, you can just swivel the motor mount bracket out of the way. I had to replace my bracket, so this was not an option for me. I don't know how well that works.

10. Remove the fly wheel cover.

11. Disconnect the oil level sensor, and then remove the oil level sensor. I used an adjustable crescent wrench. This sensor is very fragile and can easily be damaged. Mine needed to be replaced anyway so I didn't care, but It is easily damaged.

12. Remove all of the oil pan bolts(3/8")

13. Gently remove oil pan. Be careful not to bend the pan. The drivers side rear corner will be very close to the transmission, but you can work it out.

14. Remove the oil return tube. There are two bolts on either side that have to be removed. Once you remove the oil pickup tube, you can remove the oil pan gasket. *****You may not have to remove the return tube. The shape of the hole in the oil pan gasket is designed to be able to be removed without taking off the return tube. I couldn't get the angle on the gasket to get around the large end of the return tube so I removed it. If you are able to get it off, you can skip removing the return tube.******

15. Carefully clean the areas where the old gaskets were. This is your chance to completely clean out your oil pan as well.

16. Install oil level sensor. I chose to install the new oil level sensor on the pan at this point. *****You may choose to do it after the pan is on. If you do it like me, you do need to be aware that you can break it on the oil return tube if you are not careful. The GM service manual suggests installing this after the oil pan is in place on the engine.*****

17. Place the new oil pan gasket in place and then install the oil return tube and gasket with the 2 bolts.

18. Put the oil pan back into place. I finger tightened about 4 or 5 bolts evenly around the oil pan. Then you can install all of the oil pan bolts and tighten them(13 ft/lbs), and replace the fly wheel cover.

19. Reinstall the motor mount bracket. This can take some time to get the bolts started. They are a pain to get to.

20. Install the motor mount.

Once I got the mount into place, I carefully lowered the engine a little bit until I was able to line up the posts in the holes for the bracket as well as the cradle. Once I had all of the nuts started, I lowered the engine the rest of the way until it rested completely on the mount as it should. I then tightened all 4 of the bolts with my ratcheting wrench.

21. Don't forget to tighten your cradle bolts if you loosened them.

22. Replace your dogbone bolts.

23. Put on your new oil filter and replace the oil drain plug. Put in your new oil, and you are done.

I think I've gotten everything, but if you feel I've missed something, please let me know. I realized that I've missed a few pictures, but I will try to add some in when I can get them. If you are attempting this for the 1st time and have questions please PM me. Now that I've attempted this repair twice and succeeded once, I feel that I could do it in about 2 hours. If you are attempting this for the 1st time, I'd be prepared for at least 4 hours if you are doing nothing else while you are in there.

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#273861 RegalWizzard's Madness

Posted by RegalWizzard on 29 January 2011 - 01:01 AM

I started modifications on my then, brand new 2003 JA almost immediately after accepting dealer delivery. Imagine ripping into a brand new car! However, I had to distinguish my ride from those mundane examples driven by so many (no disrespect) “cotton tops”.

Yet in keeping with styling concepts, the car had to look factory issue, be extremely well balanced with everything meticulously operating in harmony. Part choices were done in conjunction with considerable research for quality outcomes & integration into the whole conceived package. It wasn’t important to me to be the fastest Regal on the block, nonetheless performance upgrades were paramount.

Attention was carefully given to blending appearance accents. They had to “pop” to garner refined attention while under the skin lurked a seasoned performance agenda. The drivetrain, exhaust, suspension & braking systems were harboring something other than your grandfather’s car! Join the Madness that is Regal!

After a rear spoiler was added that spring, my search focused on a hood treatment. Initially looking to adapt the ’83-’84 Hurst/Olds scoop, I found the Lauren Engineering's Grand National reproduction in June 2004. This was my first milestone breakthrough in the Regal community. Two years later, my car was featured on the cover of 2006 RegalGS calendar; pictured immediately below:

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Interestingly, it was earlier that same year [2004] in January when I started designing a custom sequential turn signal system. However, it wasn’t until a year and half later my first prototype was in successful operation. It used a Thundercat TCSF-03 module. The prototype was an excellent field test leading me to install the vastly improved Web Electric modules. By shear coincidence, the owner of Web Electric lives just down the street and he came by with his ’98 Regal to see my system in person.

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Attached File  Sequential_Turn_Signals_Installation_Latest.pdf   3.21MB   0 downloads
Attached File  Sequencers Circuit Diagram.pdf   46.12KB   0 downloads

In early 2007 I added the front “Wig-Wag” alternating turn signals to complement the rear sequentials. I remember owning a 1976 Olds Cutlass Salon with this visual lighting feature & set out to mod the Regal in like fashion. Upon learning the principle behind the intermittent cycling, this rather easy mod was born.

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Attached File  Wig-Wag Front Turn Signals.pdf   279.78KB   1 downloads

In June 2007, Ed Morad took in a totaled GP GXP with a mere 6K on the clock. Since the GP was also a W-Body platform, I thought the Bilstein spring/strut suspension would be a nice swap and Ed agreed. I had already purchased the GMPP handling kit upgrade, including the extra STB for the rear using Don Rome adapter brackets. Also the Monte Carlo bracing was already in place under the hood. So I had Ed, Erik and their crew perform the swap. The results were awe inspiring. The handling & agility magically evolved into a sport suspension without sacrificing comfort. The car could plant and turn with absolute confidence. In fact, it was so sure footed, the now rather weak sidewalls of my Goodyear NASCAR’s were getting shredded during high speed cornering.

NOTE: I think it is important to emphasize for the record I checked the ride height before & after the install and saw only a 0.25” appreciable increase from stock specs! Increased ride height was a genuine concern going into uncharted waters; however it never became an issue. My gamble paid off!

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I knew I would have to address the tires and wheels, as well as the brakes. If I remember correctly, I was running SLP Chromes at the time. My plans were to perform the C5 brake upgrade just then being made popular by Dave Wild. While Dave showed the C5s could be squeezed under the 16” stock wheels, I favored a 17” replacement.

During the course of owning the Regal, anyone who knows me will tell you I’ve changed wheels often. My wife once referred to me as “Wheelman”. So rather than focus on the past iterations of my wheels, the last & longest wheel of choice was an option used on the 2000-2001 Pontiac Bonneville. The 17” X 7.5” wheel features 20 spokes, which I had chrome dipped. The offset is 51mm. A close study of the wheel gives the impression it comes of ZR1 Corvette heritage.
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Holstering new “Z” rated Pirelli PZero Nero’s P235/55ZR17s. came PBR C5 Z06 dual piston front calipers grabbing black cadium plated 12” KVR rotors & Hawk Pro Ceramics at the corners.

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The L36 [YES L36, no typo here] 3.8 breathes through a JMB FWI system, ZZP Stage 1 HV TB & HV3 UIM insert aided by SLP 1.8 ratio aluminum roller rockers and all managed via an Intense Racing PCM. Exhaust exits a Random Technology 3"DP w/High Flow Cat and modified SLP cat-back exhaust system finishing through CORSA style dual/dual exhaust tips. I’m very proud of the exhaust note. It’s a deep rumble like a V8 without the cabin drone normally associated with SLP exhaust systems.

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Inside the Abboud interior, I replaced the stock rearview mirror in favor of a Gentex Model 221 w/8 point compass & LED map lights. Down below on the console I swapped out the stock shift knob for a new Bonneville GXP handle. In doing this latter mod, I had to fabricate a new leather boot since the Buick version proved too short.

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The nice thing about the Regal community is it brings people together who forge new relationships. I can’t begin to tell you how many cool people I’ve had the pleasure of getting to know here and in person! Below is a pic of yoko’s handywork; painting my airdam white:

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As I just finished this article, my car sits in the garage, now having just turned 62K and I have no intention of parting ways with her!

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#271039 Throwing code C1218

Posted by Blackout_GS on 04 January 2011 - 05:08 AM

ground locations

Lower left front of the engine, on the transmission stud, left of the starter
G171 (JL9/JM4)
EBCM case ground, on left frame rail at strut tower
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#271038 Throwing code C1218

Posted by Blackout_GS on 04 January 2011 - 05:06 AM

DTC C1218
Circuit Description
The system relay is energized when the ignition is ON. The system relay supplies voltage to the solenoid valves and the pump motor. This voltage is referred to as the system voltage.

The electronic brake control module (EBCM) controls each solenoid valve by grounding the solenoid.

The EBCM controls the pump motor by grounding the control circuit. The pump serves 2 purposes:

• Transfers brake fluid from the brake calipers to the master cylinder reservoir during pressure decrease events.

• Transfers brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir to the brake calipers during pressure increase events.

Conditions for Running the DTC
• The pump motor is commanded ON.

• The system voltage is greater than 8 volts.

Conditions for Setting the DTC
One of the following conditions exists for 0.16 seconds:

• With the commanded pump motor voltage less than the system voltage, the actual pump motor voltage is 3 volts less than the commanded voltage.

• With the commanded pump motor voltage greater than the system voltage, the actual pump motor voltage is less than 8 volts.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets
If equipped, the following actions occur:

• The EBCM disables the ABS for the duration of the ignition cycle.

• The EBCM disables the TCS (w/NW9) for the duration of the ignition cycle.

• The DRP does not function optimally, or with ignition voltage less than 8.5 volts, the EBCM disables the DRP for the duration of the ignition cycle.

• The ABS indicator turns ON.

• The Traction Off indicator turns ON.

Conditions for Clearing the DTC
• The condition for the DTC is no longer present and the DTC is cleared with a scan tool.

• The electronic brake control module (EBCM) automatically clears the history DTC when a current DTC is not detected in 100 consecutive drive cycles.

Diagnostic Aids
The pump motor is integral to the BPMV. The pump motor is not serviceable.

Test Description
The number below refers to the step number on the diagnostic table.

Tests the ability of the EBCM to control the pump motor. If the test lamp illuminates, the pump motor circuit within the EBCM is good.


Schematic Reference: Antilock Brake System Schematics

Connector End View Reference: Antilock Brake System Connector End Views

Did you perform the ABS Diagnostic System Check?
Go to Step 2
Go to Diagnostic System Check - ABS

Use the scan tool in order to clear the DTCs.
With the scan tool, perform the Automated Test.
Does the DTC reset?
Go to Step 3
Go to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems

Turn the ignition OFF.
Remove the EBCM from the BPMV. Refer to Electronic Brake Control Module Replacement .
Inspect the EBCM to BPMV connector for conditions which could cause an intermittent, such as damage, corrosion, poor terminal contact, or presence of brake fluid.
Is connector OK and cavity free of brake fluid?
Go to Step 5
Go to Step 4

If connector corrosion or damage is evident, replace BPMV and/or EBCM as necessary.
If brake fluid is present, replace both BPMV and EBCM. Refer to Brake Pressure Modulator Valve Replacement and Electronic Brake Control Module Replacement .
Did you complete the repair?
Go to Step 9

Connect the EBCM harness to the EBCM with the BPMV still separated.
Connect a test lamp between the pump motor circuits, internal EBCM side, using the J 35616 Connector Test Adapter Kit .
Turn the ignition ON.
With the scan tool, perform the Automated Bleed.
Does the test lamp illuminate?
Go to Step 8
Go to Step 6

Turn OFF the ignition.
Important: Removing battery voltage or ground from the EBCM will result in the following conditions:

• Loss of the TIM learned tire inflation configuration parameters in the EBCM

• The EBCM sets DTC C1245

When the diagnosis is complete, inspect the tire pressures and perform the TIM reset. Refer to Tire Pressure Monitor Procedure in Tire Pressure Monitoring.

Disconnect the EBCM connector.
Connect the J 39700 universal pinout box using the J 39700-99 cable adapter to the EBCM harness connector only.
Test both ground circuits of the EBCM including the EBCM ground for a high resistance or an open. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 9
Go to Step 7

Replace the EBCM. Refer to Electronic Brake Control Module Replacement .

Did you complete the repair?
Go to Step 9

Replace the BPMV. Refer to Brake Pressure Modulator Valve Replacement .

Did you complete the repair?
Go to Step 9

Use the scan tool in order to clear the DTCs.
With the scan tool, perform the Automated Test.
Does the DTC reset?
Go to Step 2
System OK
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#265796 DIY---Bad.Azz.Grill.

Posted by BadAzzRegalGSX on 08 November 2010 - 09:02 AM

Well here goes my DIY on making my grill!

You will need a few things
Gutter mesh = Home depot
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And buy one you need it to do all kinds of modding!
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01.First off tape off the front side outter ring we don't wanna scratch the paint here!
02.Next flip it over
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04. then pull center out!
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05. Now sand the ruff inner ring till it is smooth all the way around "BE CAREFUL PLASTIC IS FRAGILE"
some body filler might be needed.
06. Now it should be smooth so paint the inner ring and mesh what ever color i chose satin black here.
07. Now paint should be dry pull the tape and put the mesh on two holes should line up with the two remaining studs just make the holes a little bigger!
08.Now add some 3M heavy duty emblem tape to the bottom side so it sticks to the cutout in the bumper!
09. If all goes well it should look like this!
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#265683 DIY Home made shift kit.

Posted by Freddotron on 06 November 2010 - 02:49 PM

5. We need to remove the accumulator. It the device that you'll see beside the filter it has 3 lines coming off of it. The shiny thing is what you're after.
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There are select bolts that hold this in place and theortically you would just remove them and pull the whole untit. I had to pull out all of the bolts to get it to move.

The lines are held on by friction. My fingers were too cold to remove the lines so I just left the accumulator cover there and brought the housing and it's contents into the shop. There is fluid in this thing so keep your catch pan in place. The bolts BTW are 8mm
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Here's one of the accumulator housing. this is where we will be putting our spacers.
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6. We now need to remove the pistons from the accumulator The pistons and the springs that you see are attached. Pull on the spring and twist at the same time.
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7. You can see there is a lot of fluid in there still. I just left it in there. Now you want to insert one of the longer spacers on each side of the accumulator.

Pic with a spacer added
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8. once you drop the spacers in you can now put the pistons back in. Do this very slowly! If you look back at a picture of the pistons above it is a channel that becomes a fountain of ATF when you push the piston back in. I nearly got a faceful.

9. now put the other two spacers on either side.
One in:
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Both in:
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That's it. Now reassemble. I'm sure there is a proper torque spec for the bolts; I'll try to find it. I just used a German torque wrench. Goodten tight.
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