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@  dezldave961 : (01 May 2021 - 08:44 PM)

Yikes, well hope you guys get that resolved, so it stays active enough to remain viable.

@  WildGS : (30 April 2021 - 07:59 PM)

the sign in process is broke because the captcha is non-functional. That is why no new members.

@  dezldave961 : (28 April 2021 - 11:54 PM)

Somewhat true, but I'm not going to get too real about the demographics of Regal owners past & present. It'd be out of place on a Regal forum, and make people cross-eyed coming from a Regal owner. :blink:

@  Marchi1 : (28 April 2021 - 06:34 PM)

we are also hitting another round of buyers...and the group is again the young crowd and realizing that the older Regal is a bargin and normally better maintained than the GP of the saemarea.

@  dezldave961 : (26 April 2021 - 11:55 PM)

Hey, that's where I buy my top-of-the-line Spectre intake parts for my hotrod! (pre-turbo)

@  alemstrom : (26 April 2021 - 11:33 PM)

I'm here at Advance Auto

@  dezldave961 : (24 April 2021 - 02:22 PM)

We're now in a preservation community that some may discover, but it's been spread thin and the traffic has shifted away from the initial sharing styles (Tim/Zoom discuss this on ZZP podcasts, when those 4cyl goobers let them talk).

@  dezldave961 : (24 April 2021 - 02:20 PM)

The vehicles themselves dictate the demographic and activity level based on their following. GTP's drew the majority of the L67 crowd, including myself, and current 4/6/8cyl offerings of the last 15yrs are where 99% of our former peers and newcomers have shifted to.

@  Marchi1 : (21 April 2021 - 02:25 AM)

There are a few who come here for the info.....

@  dezldave961 : (19 April 2021 - 10:57 PM)

Ya, 3800/Wbody forums have cleared out. I hear there's some FB groups, but I'm ont on there and it sounds similar to the newbie-centric folks I see the last 1-2yrs on 3800pro & GPF.

@  glendayle : (18 April 2021 - 03:59 AM)

Man this thing used to be hoppin' on the daily. How times have chagned.

@  glendayle : (18 April 2021 - 03:59 AM)

LOL, someone chatted?!

@  dezldave961 : (17 April 2021 - 02:04 PM)

Just keeping the candle lit, as I mentioned on my only remaining local ClubGP chapter of the 3-4 I was very active on in my 20's

@  Marchi1 : (15 April 2021 - 07:00 PM)

nope...just us old timers

@  WildGS : (15 April 2021 - 03:56 AM)

are people still here?

@  dezldave961 : (12 April 2021 - 09:46 PM)

Hey, chuggin' along. Just finished a big overhaul on my turbo build after 12yrs.

@  Nateteo : (12 April 2021 - 05:56 PM)

literally, the last time I logged in was 3 years ago hows everybody doing

@  dezldave961 : (12 April 2021 - 04:43 PM)

Ya, they do open bracket at GS Nationals. I may go if I'm free, just to attend, even if there's no cage, yet.

@  Marchi1 : (12 April 2021 - 01:32 PM)

I am taking the SC car.I am sure it is a big event as it is in Bowling Green, KY so yeah will need to be fully copliant, but I think there is a bracket class. God I hope so

@  dezldave961 : (08 April 2021 - 01:50 PM)

*S&W Racecars cage for 95-99 Monte... I'd actually fit the xTSM class, aside from not being a RWD, if I swapped the Air-Air I/C back in. Probably wouldn't be competitive just yet, but I'd like to see them squirm.


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Replacing Vacuum Tees and lines.


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18 replies to this topic

#1 CraigGSE

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Posted 21 July 2012 - 11:08 PM

Let me first say Thank you to glendayle (Clint) for taking a few measurements for me with his calipers for this project The measurements he got for me were for the ID of the old line and the O.D for the nipple on the lower intake manifold under the supercharger snout (He has a LIM out of a car because of a genV swap hes about to do).The other measurements i got i used my calipers checking other nipples.

As some of you know i had the vacuum T connector under my supercharger snout break and i ghetto fixed it with some superglue and electrical tape...Held up for a week to get me by while i priced parts,searched online and such.Well it broke again so it was time to fix it the right way.

Stock Vac line for the line running from the map sensor to T under the snout,to the next T and then to the BBV has a Inside diameter of .075 in,which is 1.905 mm or 1/16th a inch.Some of you may be able to find this but i could not other then the dealership and they wanted to sell me this kit for 54 bucks plus tax and it only covered this system.The closest dealership that would ONLY sell me the Vac T for under the snout was over a hour away and wanted 18.76 plus tax for it.So i decided screw those prices i will do my own DIY fix.

The nipple for under the Supercharger on the shaft is a Outside diameter of roughly 6 mm or 1/4th a inch and the other Tee in this system the Nipple it connects to the shaft has a outside diameter of roughly 4 mm or 5/32s(These numbers are rounded to the closest even number on the tight side and are very close or are actual size). Now some stores do sell a 2mm inside diameter line but not many carry it stock.There is also 3 mm or 1/8th line but finding T connectors that go from 3 mm or 1/8th to 6 mm or 1/4th is not the easiest either.

I will give a list of the parts i bought with part numbers and line there on these parts were bought at O'Reillys auto part store.

Gates Vacuum hose- 4 mm inside diameter -Part number 27042 -Line GAT - Price .49 cents a foot - Bought 5 foot.

Gates Vacuum hose- 6 mm inside diameter -Part number 27043 -Line GAT - Price .59 cents a foot - Bought 1 foot.

(This hose is very thick walled it is kink and puncture resistant and is good up to 25 PSI and -40 degrees to +257 degrees.)

Dorman Auto Grade T connectors - Part Number 47326 - Line MTM - Price 3.19 comes with 2 connectors in the pack which are 1/8th by 1/8th by 3/16th.

Dorman Auto Grade T assorted connectors - Part Number 47328 - Line MTM- Price 4.99 comes with many different size connectors.

Total price for everything was 11.98 with tax.
Here is a pic to show the parts.
Attached File  P2180008.JPG   540.81KB   59 downloads

So once i got home i first started by taking off the line from the Map sensor (Back of engine on a metal bracket over the rear valve cover) and cut a new piece of the 4 mm or 5/32nd line the same length.The 4 mm line is very tight to fit onto the nipple back there but it will fit,i did it and this Vac line will not rip its good stuff.Once i got it on the nipple for the Map sensor i routed it over to the nipple under the supercharger snout.

Too make my new T connector for under the supercharger snout i first cut a small piece (Long enough so the Lower intake manifold nipple fits in and the new T fits in) of the 6 mm or 1/4h inch line and put it onto a T connector i found in the assorted pack,this T connector is 1/8th by 1/8th by 1/4.I put the 6 mm line onto the 1/4th side of the T connector then slide the other end of the hose onto the lower intake manifold nipple.Again fittings are nice and tight but they do fit i did it with no issues.I then attached the line 4 mm line i ran from the Map sensor to left 1/8th connector side.Here is the pic to give u the idea of how it looks with the small piece i cut to put on the one end to slide onto the nipple.
Attached File  P2180012.JPG   513.56KB   60 downloads

Next i took the other line that connected to the T under the supercharger snout to the T up above (Not sure what part this connects to)measured a piece of 4 mm line to same length as that line and connected it to the right 1/8th connector on the new T i made for under the snout and then routed it up to where the higher T is.I then removed the old higher up T and made a new Tee for this nipple just like i did for the one under the snout.I cut a small piece of 4 mm line (Long enough to fit the nipple and a T connector end into it)and then stuck it onto the upper nipple.Using a 1/8th by 1/8th by 3/16 T connector out of the 2 pack i bought i pushed the 3/16th side into the other end of the hose on the nipple.(Again tight fit but it does fit no issues). I then connected the 4mm line from the T from under the snout to one of the 1/8th inch connections on the T.

Next i removed the last piece of hose running from this T over to the BBV and cut a new piece out of the 4 mm line the same length.Not needing any T connectors here i pushed the 4 mm hose onto the other 1/8th inch connection on the upper T and ran it over (routing it nicely) and connected it to the BBVs nipple.Again tight fits but the hose goes on no problems.

Bam i just fixed my broken V tee under the snout plus i replaced all the lines on this part of the vac system and other T connector with brand new lines and T connectors insuring no cracks,punctures or anything in this part of my cars vacuum system for cheaper then the dealership wants just for the one T connector for under the supercharger snout.

I wrote this DIY up for everyone on here because i had the hardest time figuring out what size lines i needed or what connectors i needed,and having to figure out conversions from MMs to inches and such.Nobody on this site knew what sizes were needed they have done this fix too but did not remember what sizes lines or connectors were needed.I figure someone on this site will run into the same problem and not want to spend almost 20 bucks for just a factory vacuum T connector,or 50+ dollars for this vacuum system kit from the dealer or 20 bucks from ZZP for there vacuum system kit they offer.Again i did this fix for 11.98 and the connections are air tight due to how i made my part list so things were super tight fits.Below are pics of old lines,New hose,The packages of the Vacuum Ts and a few pictures of how i made the Vacuum T connections fit onto the nipples.

Now prices can and will be different from store to store,you can buy plastic T connections,Metal or Brass T Connectors,you can buy thin wall hose or silicon hose and all these things will very in prices but now everyone has correct sizes needed or you can just goto O'Reillys and have Part numbers needed and know the exact price!

This job took honestly 20 minutes if that,what takes the most time is cutting the lines to match other then that its just pushing things together!

I now know that i had some slight vacuum leaks here in this system due to stress fractures (cracks) in the other T out of round holes on all the T connectors and such..Car runs great it actually runs better then before i broke the vacuum T in the first place...Which again makes me realize i had a few small leaks in the old system.

Attached Files


Edited by CrazyCraigGSE, 22 July 2012 - 05:15 AM.

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#2 ejguillot

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Posted 23 July 2012 - 03:15 AM

Well done Craig! I'll be going this route with my GS.
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#3 CraigGSE

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Posted 23 July 2012 - 09:08 AM

Anytime EJ i went threw hell trying to figure out sizes and what not needed so i hope to save others the trouble and help them out with this DIY.
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#4 ejguillot

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Posted 12 August 2012 - 03:46 AM

Well, I just did this vac line replacement, here's how I did it differently:

Parts supplier for me was Advance Auto Parts (Note: all hose diameters are inner diameter)
5 feet of 5/32" vaccum hose (had about 1.5 feet left over)
1 foot of 1/4" hose (Fuel hose in my case, Advance Auto Parts didn't have 1/4" vac hose in stock) Get 1.5 feet, a little extra would help.
3/16" to 1/4" barrel connector
3/16" all around T connector
3/16" x 3/16" x 1/4" T connector (1/4" is the down leg of the T)

MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor to T under snout: MAP sensor nipple is 1/4", used about 3" of 1/4" hose connected to a 1/4" to 3/16" connector, ran 5/32" hose from that to the under snout T

T under snout: Used a 3/16" x 3/16" X 1/4" (1/4" goes toward LIM nipple), connected 1/4" end with 2" of 1/4" hose to LIM nipple. Ran more 5/32" hose from the other 3/16" connector to the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) T

T to FPR: 3/16" all around. Used 1.5" of 5/32" hose to connect the FPR to the FPR T connector. One side goes to the T under the snout, the other to the BBV (boost bypass valve) solenoid.

FPR T to BBV solenoid: used 5/32" hose from FPR T directly to the BBV nipple.

BBV solenoid to lower connector of BBV: This factory hose was in good shape, left it alone.

Upper BBV to supercharger inlet port: used 3 to 3.5" of 1/4 hose.

Fuel evap to throttle body: had an 5/16" to 1/4" adapter and a 1/4" connector plugged into the adapter. Used the last of the 1/4" hose (about 4") to connect from there to the hard line (which was in good shape on my car).

Thanks to CraigGSE for the initial write up and pics.

Edited by ejguillot, 12 August 2012 - 03:53 AM.

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#5 CraigGSE

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Posted 13 August 2012 - 02:40 AM

Glad i could help out man.
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#6 joshua

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 08:40 PM

Thanks for this, the parts numbers are awesome. I never think I am getting the right pieces but the part numbers make it fool proof.
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#7 CraigGSE

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 09:00 PM

any time!
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#8 Iroc313

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Posted 23 March 2013 - 09:23 AM

Man I wish I had this when I did my headers, I had every vacuum leak in the world.

Well done sir!
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#9 CraigGSE

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Posted 23 March 2013 - 05:44 PM

Any Time!
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#10 silvermullet

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Posted 23 March 2013 - 10:27 PM

could sumone post a pic of where these vac lines actually go on the car .i just did my intake gaskets and did not see one single T fitting or do i know where these lines , what sensors are connected to what sensors .the car run like a dream , then next day i get service engine soon light . help???
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#11 JimA

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Posted 05 October 2013 - 05:51 PM

I searched every auto part and home depot in town. I ended up rigging it up with superglue and heat shrink. This is infinitely helpfull. Cant wait to put an end to these old troublesome lines


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#12 kevandkaye

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Posted 05 October 2013 - 09:34 PM

elbow.jpg


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#13 Sabertooth66

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Posted 18 November 2013 - 06:50 PM

This thread kicks so much ass!


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#14 Vytasb

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 09:34 PM

Great write up, Thanks!  Did this today and my car idles more smoothly and feels much nicer!  I must have had a lot of leaks as well.  The car was idling a bit high at first (~1k), but then the computer seemed to figure out the difference and fixed it.

 

The only things i did differently was that I removed the MAP sensor to make sure the hose was on as far as it could go.  I have big hands so it was hard to get in there with all the wiring and brake booster line in the way.  Had to take the strut bar off to get in there as well.

 

Also, my local O'Reilly was out of the 27042 4mm bulk tubing, so I used a kit: Prestone WV0532, which is 5/32 vacuum tubing.  Came in a 6' package and was $3.99.  A little bit pricier but you get a lot of extra to play with if you mess up or use it on another car.


Edited by Vytasb, 15 January 2014 - 09:36 PM.

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#15 Reefer82

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Posted 01 February 2014 - 10:48 PM

I did this little by little on my old gs through trial and error. My father in law being a mechanic had many rolls of vacuum tubing and I just figured it out. Guess I should have done this year's ago. Good job Craig for taking the initiative! It worked fine for the two years I still had the car fwiw so I would expect the fix to last awhile.
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#16 CraigGSE

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Posted 02 February 2014 - 06:52 AM

Not one problem yet knock on wood. Car is running great,


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#17 BlackBetty

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Posted 14 June 2014 - 09:57 PM

Well Im doing a LIM change soon as well to fix my leak. So I've been looking up everything and anything that can be reasonably upgraded like aluminum coolant elbows. So if you are into a kit upgrade and want color check this site out. 

 

http://www.hiperform...om/HoseKits.htm


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#18 BettyRegal

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Posted 18 March 2015 - 02:52 AM

This was GOLD for me. Perfect timing for me to stumble across this too, had both T's split down the side and so I replaced the whole line. Thank you SO MUCH for taking the time for this.

 

-Betty


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#19 KaleEros

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Posted 01 May 2021 - 09:28 PM

Thank you so much for this! Items a re a bit more expensive for me now but was still under $20. Much better than Ebay prices and no auto parts stores even know what this harness is anymore.


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