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@  dezldave961 : (01 May 2021 - 08:44 PM)

Yikes, well hope you guys get that resolved, so it stays active enough to remain viable.

@  WildGS : (30 April 2021 - 07:59 PM)

the sign in process is broke because the captcha is non-functional. That is why no new members.

@  dezldave961 : (28 April 2021 - 11:54 PM)

Somewhat true, but I'm not going to get too real about the demographics of Regal owners past & present. It'd be out of place on a Regal forum, and make people cross-eyed coming from a Regal owner. :blink:

@  Marchi1 : (28 April 2021 - 06:34 PM)

we are also hitting another round of buyers...and the group is again the young crowd and realizing that the older Regal is a bargin and normally better maintained than the GP of the saemarea.

@  dezldave961 : (26 April 2021 - 11:55 PM)

Hey, that's where I buy my top-of-the-line Spectre intake parts for my hotrod! (pre-turbo)

@  alemstrom : (26 April 2021 - 11:33 PM)

I'm here at Advance Auto

@  dezldave961 : (24 April 2021 - 02:22 PM)

We're now in a preservation community that some may discover, but it's been spread thin and the traffic has shifted away from the initial sharing styles (Tim/Zoom discuss this on ZZP podcasts, when those 4cyl goobers let them talk).

@  dezldave961 : (24 April 2021 - 02:20 PM)

The vehicles themselves dictate the demographic and activity level based on their following. GTP's drew the majority of the L67 crowd, including myself, and current 4/6/8cyl offerings of the last 15yrs are where 99% of our former peers and newcomers have shifted to.

@  Marchi1 : (21 April 2021 - 02:25 AM)

There are a few who come here for the info.....

@  dezldave961 : (19 April 2021 - 10:57 PM)

Ya, 3800/Wbody forums have cleared out. I hear there's some FB groups, but I'm ont on there and it sounds similar to the newbie-centric folks I see the last 1-2yrs on 3800pro & GPF.

@  glendayle : (18 April 2021 - 03:59 AM)

Man this thing used to be hoppin' on the daily. How times have chagned.

@  glendayle : (18 April 2021 - 03:59 AM)

LOL, someone chatted?!

@  dezldave961 : (17 April 2021 - 02:04 PM)

Just keeping the candle lit, as I mentioned on my only remaining local ClubGP chapter of the 3-4 I was very active on in my 20's

@  Marchi1 : (15 April 2021 - 07:00 PM)

nope...just us old timers

@  WildGS : (15 April 2021 - 03:56 AM)

are people still here?

@  dezldave961 : (12 April 2021 - 09:46 PM)

Hey, chuggin' along. Just finished a big overhaul on my turbo build after 12yrs.

@  Nateteo : (12 April 2021 - 05:56 PM)

literally, the last time I logged in was 3 years ago hows everybody doing

@  dezldave961 : (12 April 2021 - 04:43 PM)

Ya, they do open bracket at GS Nationals. I may go if I'm free, just to attend, even if there's no cage, yet.

@  Marchi1 : (12 April 2021 - 01:32 PM)

I am taking the SC car.I am sure it is a big event as it is in Bowling Green, KY so yeah will need to be fully copliant, but I think there is a bracket class. God I hope so

@  dezldave961 : (08 April 2021 - 01:50 PM)

*S&W Racecars cage for 95-99 Monte... I'd actually fit the xTSM class, aside from not being a RWD, if I swapped the Air-Air I/C back in. Probably wouldn't be competitive just yet, but I'd like to see them squirm.


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Type R Subs/Amp/Monsoon problems


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10 replies to this topic

#1 ccalebb1

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Posted 25 June 2013 - 05:24 PM

As some of you may know i have a sub setup in my car consisting of 2 12" Alpine type R's running off a Sony XM-2002GTR amp. Now Im no car audio genius but I know what Im doing when installing systems. I still have my stock monsoon head unit and monsoon amp running the speakers. The Line out converter is taking the signals from the two back speakers and running them to my amp for it to turn on. Now this is where I'm stumped. I have the 2 subs bridged to my amp and let me tell you these were bangin in my trunk. They were working fine until one day I checked them out and one of them was not hitting anymore But the other one was.. Has me confused because both of them were getting the same wattage but only one is having problems. I lightly push down on the cone and it doesnt make any scratching noises so the coils must be fine. I even tried the AA Battery test and still nothin. I really don't know what the problem could be.. Maybe you guys could help me out

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Edited by ccalebb1, 25 June 2013 - 05:25 PM.

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#2 glendayle

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Posted 25 June 2013 - 09:14 PM

make sure you haven't crossed your +/- on one or both of your speakers. I had accidentally done this and sounded terrible. switched the wire around properly and now hits like it should.
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#3 Crazyguy03

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Posted 26 June 2013 - 12:07 AM

Test the sub on the line out from the amp that goes to the speaker that IS working. In other words switch your speaker connections around and verify that it isn't blown sub. You said you didn't change anything so no reason for it to suddenly stop working
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#4 ccalebb1

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Posted 29 June 2013 - 03:39 AM

Test the sub on the line out from the amp that goes to the speaker that IS working. In other words switch your speaker connections around and verify that it isn't blown sub. You said you didn't change anything so no reason for it to suddenly stop working

Iswitched them the second it wasn't working and still nothin.. If you're familiar with the AA battery test i did that as well and still nothing. The sub isn't blown because when i press on the cone no grinding or scratching of coils..has me so confused...maybe internal wiring?
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#5 Crazyguy03

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Posted 29 June 2013 - 02:43 PM

if you already applied the working speaker line from the amp to the sub that is working, to this sub, and it still doesn't work, I would consider it done.
To make sure , grab a multimeter and verify if there is a short or open in the speaker.
A multimeter is used test for continuity. Testing for continuity basically means testing to see if there is an electric connection between two points. If two points are electrically connected they are said to be continuous. OHMs should read 2-4-6-8 etc depending on what the speaker is rated at. Any open in that circuit will show on the meter.
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#6 ccalebb1

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Posted 30 June 2013 - 02:22 PM

I will test and find out results later. I have my amp grounded to a bolt in the back of my trunk is there a better place to ground out besides running more wire tothe battery
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#7 Crazyguy03

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Posted 30 June 2013 - 02:24 PM

You shouldn't ground it directly to battery.
You need the shortest ground possible from amp to chassis.

My ground is sanded to bare metal with a large contact path from the terminal end to the chassis. Then I used clear silicone to cover it

Edited by Crazyguy03, 30 June 2013 - 02:26 PM.

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#8 ccalebb1

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Posted 04 July 2013 - 06:50 PM

Okay this sub has me goin nuts. It is dual 4 ohm. first I test the sub thru thetwo outside terminals (+ -) with the wire going between the two inner terminals - no signal. So I decide to switch the terminals and test the two on the left side (+ -) with the wire on the right terminals (+- ) and BAM it gives me a reading. What the f is going on?!
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#9 CraigGSE

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Posted 23 August 2013 - 06:35 AM

sounds like one of the coils is toast. And FYI they do not have to sound or feel scratchy to be blown.
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#10 garciags

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Posted 28 April 2014 - 02:55 AM

Ive ran into some voice coil wiring coming loose/breaking form the speaker terminal. sometimes you can solder it other times the speaker/sub is garbage


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#11 eric.v

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Posted 17 May 2014 - 04:15 AM

The guys above are almost certainly right.  You've got a blown coil.  If its wired in series, you don't have a complete connection, but if they're wired in parallel, then the one coil should be driving the sub--poorly--but driving it nonetheless.

 

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